"

Hi Joe,

There are a lot of metal (foil) tapes but the ones I'm familiar with are made by 3M. I know what you are talking about with the jib chafe and the foil tape is a good solution. It will protect the fiberglass and the tape is UV resistant and waterproof. 3M makes three different products (different thickness/different adhesives) and I've included a link below to the data sheets for each of the products.

1. 3M Product #1449 is my choice because it is the thinnest of the foil tapes at 1.4 mil and that makes it easy to shape. It has a strong adhesive and a long service life, plus it is waterproof and UV and mold resistant. Click HERE for 3M foil tape website then click 3311.

2. 3M Product #3326 has the strongest adhesive and is the thickest of the three products at 2.3 mil, but it will withstand a lot of abuse. So, if you chafe problem is really bad, this is your product. Click on the link above and then on 3326 for the product sheet.

3. 3M Product #3311 is in between in thickness at 2 mil and it has a strong adhesive, but can still be removed. It has the added advantage of a paper liner which makes it each to cut and shape if that's important.

In addition to 3M Intertape makes a line of Aluminum foil tapes that are rated for marine use. I have no experience with these tapes, but they are marine rated, so I'm sure they will do the trick as well. Click HERE for the Intertape website.

Hope this helps.

Good luck,

Captain Mike Clayton

"

"

Hi Terri

I've not had a lot of experience with oil exchange pumps myself so my advice may be of limited help, but I have used a Reverso pump system on the Swans that I've run in the past. http://reversopumps.com/products.htm

These pumps have also given me some trouble but I believe primarily due to the fact that the retro fit installation was a little poor. It is really important to install the pump as low down as possible, below the level of the engine sumps to enable the pumps to prime easily. Regardless of whether or not they say they are self priming, moving the pump lower in the bilge in my case made a huge difference. If the pump runs dry for a long time whilst priming, the rubber impeller will suffer and quickly fail, moving the pump below the sump level will minimize the length of time to prime the pump. Also to assist the prime, you should heat the oil up before draining to lower the viscosity. Run the engine for 5-10 mins, no need to bring it up to running temperature but just a little warm to aid the flow.

Sorry I can't recommend a number of other pumps as I just don't have the experience of anything other than Reverso, but the above suggestions made a big difference for me.

Best of luck

Captain Ian Fagg

"

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He Debra,

As Craig Bliss answered to an earlier question, Petit Easypoxy is very easy to use and gives great results whether rolled and tipped, or brushed. It is approved for both topsides and decks and here's an excerpt from the manufacturer's product information:

"Easypoxy is a modern polyurethane topside and deck enamel improved by the addition of silicone for brilliant shine and easy brushability. It has ultraviolet filters which enhance the already superior gloss retention and durability of polyurethane. The result is a topside finish that's exceptionally easy to apply, producing a lasting gelcoat-like brilliance with a minimum of effort. For a semi-gloss finish for decks and interiors use 3106 Easypoxy Semi-Gloss White or simply add 9080 Easypoxy Satin Additive to any Easypoxy color for a custom satin look."

Click HERE for a direct link to the manufacturer's website for this particular product.

For the molded in non-skid area, there are special directions on the website for painting these areas and here is another quote from the manufacturer:

"For decks which have a pre-molded, non-skid embossment, wash the surface with 15095 Fiberglass Dewaxer. Abrade area thoroughly with bronze wool; solvent clean to remove residue. Apply two coats of Easypoxy, adding 9900 Skidless Compound to the mixture if an improved non-skid texture is desired."

This product should work well for you for both the topsides and the decks.

Happy painting,

Captain Mike Clayton

"

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Hi Steve

A little confusing I agree, but I get the gist and will try and explain.

Basically the author is explaining how to avoid and or deal with a situation when the anchor chains of 2 (or more) boats become crossed when docking stern to a quay, a very typical docking method in the Med. The crew determine where on the quay they wish to tie (stern to) and whilst backing towards this spot, drop their anchor and continue playing it out until they reach the quay. After tying the stern of the boat to the quay, they take up some tension on the anchor chain to keep the boat from hitting the quay as it moves around in the wind.

The problem comes when many boats are all tied in this manner to the same quay, an extremely common occurrence especially in season in popular harbours. The dock master will squash as many boats as possible onto the quay such that the boats will be pressed beam to beam like sardines in a tin. Now, assuming you manage to drop your anchor in a perfect line in front of your boat, as well as the guys either side of you and perhaps even the guys outside of them then you have no problem, but this is rarely the case. Often you may be docking with a side wind making this manoeuvre a little tricky and inevitably you may well misjudge and drop your anchor a little to windward of your space on the quay such that when you play it out and tie up, you have laid it over the top of someone else’s chain (probably the guy you are now alongside). Alternatively the same may happen when another boat docks next to you. This happens so often that it is more or less normal and is no reason to get angry (as many do), just be aware of how to deal with it.

The problem comes when you now wish to leave the dock before someone next to you who has his chain laid over the top of yours. Knowing the situation it’s probably worth letting your neighbour know you’re leaving so he can help as necessary. As you leave the quay lifting your chain, your chain will slip from underneath your neighbours, ultimately however, your anchor will hook your neighbours’ chain and as you continue to lift his chain comes up too.

So…. Now you have your anchor at the surface and the chain of your neighbour laying over it preventing you from being able to bring it aboard and stow. Your neighbour should also be aware that this might have tripped his anchor such that it’s no longer holding and preventing him from drifting back into the quay. Your neighbour should start his engine and put it in forward gear at low revs to prevent this from happening, he should then reset his anchor after you have left.

To remove the chain from your anchor, the previous author is suggesting taking a hook on a rope to hook the chain, once hooked the hook/rope assembly can be tied off tightly to a bow cleat. Lower your anchor to free it and then lift it again past the suspended chain and stow it. Now you can drop the suspended chain.

However, I personally would recommend a slightly different approach that I have successfully used, as I can’t see how you now get your hook un-hooked from your neighbor's chain. Alternatively, I take a short rope, tie one end to a bow cleat, pass it under the fouled chain, then pull it tight and tie it back to the same cleat. Now I lower my anchor to free it from the neighbor's chain and once clear lift it aboard and stow it. You may want to use your boat hook to orientate your anchor to not hook the suspended chain as it passes again on its way up.

Once your anchor is safely stowed, undo one end of the rope suspending your neighbours’ chain and let it slide away, finally pull aboard the rope AND OFF YOU GO…….

I have used this method hundreds of times for all sorts of fouled lines and chains on my anchor, including once a 4” power cable which was so heavy I could only get it to about 20 foot of the surface. On this occasion I took a longer line, tied off one end and swam with the other underneath the cable and back to the surface before tying it off to the cleat.

I hope this all makes sense.

Best regards

Capt. Ian G. Fagg

"

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Hi Joe,

It sounds like you are referring to "Easypoxy," which I have used with great results for years. I have rolled and tipped the topsides of a 90+' boat several times, brushed small bits of hardware and everything in between. I personally love the stuff and find it very easy to work with, if you are working within the temperature perimeters and have prepped the area properly, it flows nicely without any thinners. You may need some brushing thinners depending on the environment, but use as little as possible, the less you put in the longer the paint will last.

Hope this helps, and let us know if you have any more questions on the matter.

Best,

Captain Craig Bliss

"

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Hi Chris,

You must be interested in the definition as it pertains to the 6-pack license. The definition is located in CFR 46; Section 7 and specifically in Section 10.103 and 10.109 wherein they define Near Coastal as "Ocean waters not more than 200 miles offshore."

But it is a little more complicated than that, because USCG further defines ocean waters as water seaward of the "Boundary Line." The boundary line isn't on a chart because it isn't used for navigation, and the line is different for all coastal shores; see Section 7 for exact descriptions of various Boundary Lines.

Below I pasted in a link to the Electronic Code of Federal Regulations (e-CFR) if you are interested in reading the exact language, but as a general rule of thumb you are always going to be fine anywhere from 3 to 200 miles offshore.

Electronic Code of Federal Regulations, click HERE

Hope this helps,

Captain Craig Bliss

"

"

Hi Dwayne,

I've been thinking about your problem and talking with some people in the industry, and what I've learned is the draw will vary depending on the temperature of the engine when it's cranked over. Cold, it will draw more than if warm. So, my best recommendation is to contact your local Perkins dealer and find out what the starter draw is, and with this value refer to the American Wire Guage Table to determine the correct guage size - - see link below:

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Consulting this guide, it seems to me that a run of 15 feet is a little on the long side. If it is possible to have a shorter run, this would definitely be preferable, but if a long run is unavoidable, then move up to the next larger size to compensate.

In my own experience, I would recommend soldering the terminals if possible, that said, there are clamp style terminals that also work well so it's a matter of preference. You must however use a fuse, it's a small additional expense and a simple installation, but the protection is well worth it.

Best of luck with the installation,

Captain Ian Fagg

"

"

Hi Thomas,

I'm not familiar with how your current floor is fitted to your furniture and cabinetry, but it's either flush fit or under the furniture with a finish molding. Either way, the first thing you need to do is make a master pattern of all the pieces out of construction paper. Number the floor boards in order then carefully and precisely cut the construction paper to the exact dimensions of each section of the sole. I use an Exacto knife pictured below.

Once you have the master pattern in construction paper, take it out on the dock and assemble the paper sole. Teak and Holly marine plywood comes in 1/4, 3/4 and 1/2 inch thickness and in standard sheets of 4 x 8 feet. An excellent source is Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, Rhode Island, click HERE to go to their website. A 4 x 8 foot sheet of Teak and Holly plywood is listed at $410 each.

With the master pattern laid out, measure to determine the square feet you will need. Because of the irregular shapes of cabin soles and the desirability of uniform direction you may need two sheets to match the pattern. Once you know how much you need, place the order.

As far as removing the old floor, the lifting floor boards are easy. Fixed boards are fastened in several different ways, sometime screwed from underneath, sometimes pegged, sometimes glued. I don't know how Islander fastened your sole, but it should be obvious to you on inspection. As the floor is being replaced, you don't have to be careful removing the old floor, in fact a chisel and crowbar often works wonders.

Now you're ready to replace the floor. Find the center line on the master pattern that runs all the way from the V-berth back to the companionway and mark it on all of the patterns. Align the center line on the master pattern with a holly stripe on the plywood and use a fine point Sharpie to lay out the pattern on the plywood. What you're looking for is uniformity of pattern and fore-aft alignment of the holly stripes. Important, for all the outboard pieces, leave an extra 1/8 inch on the outboard edge (this will be used to adjust fit later). Once you are satisfied, number each section using a small piece of masking tape, then you're ready to cut.

Use a hand-held jigsaw fitted with a "finish" blade and cut the pattern. Set up saw guides so your cuts will be straight and then go very slow so you obtain a good finished edge. Stop after the first piece has been cut and take it into the boat and make sure it "fits" properly in place. Repeat until all the pieces are cut and ready to install. Last step is to sand the edges.

Important note: Marine grade plywood needs to be "sealed" on the edges. Use a thin coat of marine grade epoxy to fill the plywood and than I use a couple of coats of Thompsons Water Seal over the epoxy. This will prevent any moisture penetration that could lead to delamination and rot and the epoxy will build up the surface just enough to ensure the boards fit tightly.

To ensure a tight fit, start in the center of the cabin and lay all the pieces in place. With the extra 1/8 inch on the outboard edge, you'll be able to make small adjustments for fit toward the center pieces. Make sure you keep the center pieces in perfect alignment and adjust fit by trimming the outboard edges. Once you have a tight fit, remove all the boards and start with the outboard pieces and work to the center fastening the pieces as per the method Islander uses. Before you know it, your boat will look brand new.

Good Luck

Captain Ian Fagg

"

"

Hi Julie,

Please excuse my bluntness, but stay as far away from that boat as possible. You cannot believe the amount of work it would take to make the vessel safe and seaworthy.

Age has little to do with a nice sailing vessel, it's the condition that matters and I think it's great that you are considering the purchase and revival of an old needy boat. I must admit that I have a fondness for old boats in need, but don't let the attractive price sway you. The project to bring the boat back may cost a small fortune. Just keep poking around and I'm sure you will find the right boat, just not this one.

If you do decide to go for it, make sure you hire a quality marine surveyor as they will advise you as to the extent of the damage and whether she can be made structurally sound. Never buy without a marine survey - - the cost of the survey is tiny in comparison to what hidden damage can cost later.

Keep looking and drop me a note on SailAngle if you find something and want an opinion.

All the best,

Captain Craig Bliss

"

"

Hello H.E.,

The "A" or alpha designation on your VHF simply means a "U.S." channel. Some European VHF's are not equipped with a "USA" mode and would have to find another working channel with the Coast Guard. So when the Coast Guard gives you a working channel followed by "alpha" that is their way of designating a US mode channel.

All the best,

Captain Craig Bliss

"

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“Hello Dan,

I have been researching your question regarding a non-US citizen registering a boat where they live. There are two ways to register a vessel in the United States, one is by documentation which is controlled by the US Coast Guard and you must be a US citizen to get a US documentation for your vessel, the other is a local state registration system. This answer is not clear cut and seems to vary slightly from state to state. Since I am from the Great Lakes region I will try to describe the basic concept used in these waters.

To answer your question quickly, a non-US citizen with a permanent residence in a US State can obtain a vessel registration from that state with some clarifications. For an example; Ohio considers a person as a permanent resident if you live in Ohio more than six months a year. To register a boat in Ohio you simply need to use the vessel in Ohio waters as you primary location of boating. The only odd condition I did find out about was that as a registered Ohio vessel, that vessel can not dock in the same location outside of Ohio for more than 60 consecutive days or you are subject to revocation of the Ohio registration. I have no idea how this enforced, but that is the way the regulations are written.

Whatever home state a vessel is registered in, that vessel may be operated in any other state in the US without additional identification or registration so long as it is operated within the regulations of the local jurisdiction. Again an example from Ohio: if a vessel that is registered in Michigan is brought to an inland lake in Ohio it must comply with Ohio inland water requirements but if that same Michigan vessel is operated in Federally Controlled waters such as the Ohio River or Lake Erie and any of their tributaries, it must comply not only with Ohio inland waters but also US Coast Guard regulations.

In short a non-US citizen may acquire a state vessel registration where they live. Before doing so, I would strongly recommend they contact the local state division of watercraft to understand all the local regulations before applying for the registration.

Safe Boating
Captain Gordon Hartschuh”

"

"

Dear Marc,

Captain Bob Wellen of the Red Sky here (Swan 100), in answer to your situation of a newly purchased sailboat enroute to Bermuda with a broken mast and not enough fuel to reach Bermuda. I have a contact that I'm 90% sure can help or can give you another for sure contact to get fuel out to your boat about to flounder. His name is Mark Soares of Bermuda Yacht Services. His contact information is (441) 297-2798 and his cell is (441) 334-7245 and email mark@bermudayachtservices.com.

I wish you the best,

Captain Bob Wellen

"

"

Hi Glenn,

I've done quite a bit of web searching and given the popularity of the Cal-30's was actually surprised to find that there are no organized Cal-30 clubs. That said, here are some links that I did find that may help you.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=114740
http://pages.sssnet.com/go2erie/calhome.htm
http://www.c-2.com/sbo/boatinfo.htm?fno=499.9

Alternately, you should consider setting up your own Cal Owners Club on SailAngle. Click on "Groups" on the silver navigation bar and then "All Groups". Chose Sailboats and then "Add a new Group." Make it a public group so it can be found on Google, fill in the details and then submit. It's easy, and likely to attract a broad audience.

Regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

"

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Hello Will,

Here is a diagram of the wiring for the Perkins 4108:

In addition, click HERE to go to a website that has more information of the wiring harness for the Perkins 4108. The following is some of the information from that web page:

Perkins 4108 Diesel Engine Wiring Harness and Diagram

The front face of the original Perkins 4108 control panel,which is fitted with VDO gauges,oil pressure,rev, counter and water temperature,charge warning light,I have added an instrument light on/off switch and a remote cockpit 12volt supply plug.

My own boats engine is a tried and trusted Perkins 4108 diesel engine,its done around 1750 hours,which is not a lot for an engine around 25 years old? I service it on a regular basis and alway use the correct grade of diesel engine oil,this in itself doubles the permisable hours you can run between service over conventional oils.

My engine has what I think is the standard switch panel and related meters,the start switch had been changed for a non marine quality one,I put a new switch in,which in my case has the optional key position to warm up the Lucas fuel pre heater device used for cold starting.

The wire loom is original,it has two cable bullet connectors at each end of the loom,which in my case is about five meters long ( 197 inches) my connector blocks show some degrade from its previous service life,the 4mm brown live supply connector has corroded right away,requiring a reconnection.I also find a few stray wires that seem to connect to nothing,plus wires that are in the loom and are not required.

You can go to the website above to read more.

Hope this helps.

All the best,

Captain Ian Fagg

"

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Hi Mike,

Wow, those are some pretty big stones!! It's important to make a good repair here as water ingress into the core of the deck will ultimately lead to delamination and further issues. If you haven't already, I would suggest you make sure the damage is covered until you have time to fix it.

If you are not already familiar with West System products, you're going to be by the time your finished. West Systems has a fantastic online brochure which I suggest you download and refer to during your planning of the repair. Here's the link: www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides.

First you will need to take a grinding disc and grind back the damaged area, make sure you expose some of the foam/wood core and work the surrounding area into a dish shape.

Next, make sure you really dry out the core well, if necessary build a little tent over the area and position a hair dryer over the damage until you are sure it is really dry. Then clean up the area with Acetone to make it ready for glassing over.

Cut some glass cloth pieces sized to fill the dish you've created. You'll want to use 5-8 layers depending on the thickness of the deck and cloth. Here's the trick, place the smallest piece in the bottom and make each successive piece slightly larger in size to overlap until you reach the top. Follow the directions in your West System download in the "applying cloth/tape" section.

When this is completed and cured you will now want to fare out the repair so that it's nice and flush. Sand the repair with a block or orbital sander keeping it flat to the surface. Inevitably there will be pockets in the glass/epoxy where the surface isn't flush. These areas need to be filled with Epoxy and 407, again see the "fairing" section in your West System download.

When cured, sand down the surface until it is nice and flush, repeat the process again if necessary to fill any last pockets that may have been missed the first time around.

To match the finish to the surrounding deck, again the West System download outlines all of the finishes you may be trying to achieve. The toughest finish is the diamond print - - first you have to match the gelcoat color, then you will need to make a mold from another area of the deck using the 407 which you already have. Wax up an area with some release wax and pour some resin over it. When dry, it should pull off easily and you will have your mold of the diamond print. After painting the repair area you can now use this mold to replicate the print by pressing it into the deck over the wet gelcoat and using something heavy to keep it in place while it cures. Sounds easy enough, but I recommend a couple of test runs on some scrap material first until you get the hang of it.

While it seems like a lot of trouble, this is something I would definitely recommend that every boat owner learn to do. It's not the last time you will need to repair a damaged area on deck or the hull and it will save you a lot of money in the long run if you're capable of doing it yourself.

Good luck and best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

"

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Hi Marco,

I recently became much more educated on Sika products after failing three times to successfully fasten a lexan window back into its frame. I contacted Sika and spoke with a factory representative. My mistake was the absence of a primer - - this may also be your problem.

Looking through the products on the Sika website it looks like the best product for your application will be the "Sika 221" but I would also recommend using the 215 primer for wood, plastics and composites. There is also a 208 product for cleaning prior to use, that will remover the existing Sika you have there from the failed attempt.

Hope this helps.

Best,

Captain Ian Fagg

"

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Hi Frank,

I think you are talking about the Hull Identification Number (HIN #). The manufacturer must affix two such numbers to the hull and usually one is stamped into the gelcoat on the starboard outboard transom with the other on a fixed member of the hull beneath a fitting, generally in the engine room or on the mast base of a sailboat. Here's a link that tells you everything you need to know - - click HERE

The following is an excerpt from the actual regulations Coast Guard Department of Transportation; CGD 79-013, 48 FR 40718.

Sec. 181.23—Hull identification numbers required
(a) A manufacturer (or importer), as defined in Sec. 181.3 of this part, must identify each boat produced or imported with two hull identification numbers that meet the requirements of this subpart:

(1) A primary hull identification number affixed in accordance with Secs. 181.29(a) and (c) of this subpart; and

(2) A duplicate hull identification number affixed in accordance with Secs. 181.29(b) and (c) of this subpart.

Look carefully at the top of the starboard transom, you should find the HIN number there, unless the hull has been painted or repaired in a way that obscures the HIN number. It should be within two inches of the deck joint.

Hope this helps.

Best,

Captain Mike Clayton

"

"

Hi Bob,

Sorry for the late reply, but I have to give credit to Cay Electronics in Portsmouth, RI for their help in answering your question.

Your battery ground wire is also acting as NMEA ground, your radio ground can also be NMEA ground so there is no need to keep these two wires isolated from each other, and you will not damage your NMEA port by connecting them. There are however, a couple of cautions to be aware of. If your hull is aluminum or steel, you will need a galvanic isolator between the NMEA black wire and the battery negative - - DO NOT connect these wires if you have a reversed ground system (+ve ground). Reversed ground is not common in the USA, but is often used in some boats built in Europe and Australia and on large ships.

I spoke with Cay Electronics and they will be happy to supply any parts you may need; here's the link to their website: http://www.cayelectronics.com/

Hope this works for you,

Captain Ian Fagg

"

"

Hi Dan,

A lot depends on how much oil heads your way. If there is just a very light film on the water, then you shouldn't have too much trouble. Although, I would avoid running the water maker as oil definitely has a serious negative effect on the membranes. Remember your sea water inlets are below the water level and oil floats on the surface - - so assuming the water is not heavily fouled with oil, the rest of your systems should be OK. If the water becomes heavily fouled, then you need to take action by closing all the thru-hulls (these should be closed anyway when not in use) as filling the sea water side of your heat exchanger with an oily mess can only be bad; same with the heads and holding tanks.

Removing oil from the water line is not to much trouble, a bit of bio-degradable dish liquid will do the job fine, but my concern might be if a storm came through whilst the oil was around and blew oil onto the decks and topsides.

I recommend keeping a close eye on the situation, make sure your thru-hulls are closed, and prep the boat to haul if the situation gets really bad. I've seen the photos and to be sure it's a sad situation to have to deal with.

Best,

Captain Ian Fagg

"

"

Hello Glenn,

Basically you have three choices for covering the cushions: 1. Standard cotton canvas; 2. Vinyl coated polyester canvas; and 3. Acrylic canvas. All of these will give you a comfortable cushion to sit and sleep on in hot weather, but they each have advantages and disadvantages.

First, standard cotton canvas is inexpensive when compared against the two synthetic choices. That's its chief advantage, but it is also breathable and easy to work with. The chief disadvantage is mildew. There are spray on treatments that will retard mildew growth, but if you expect the area to be frequently wet with bathing suits, SCUBA gear, etc., and it sounds like that's what you expect, then cotton canvas is probably not the best solution.

Next, is vinyl coated polyester canvas. This product comes in several trade names, with Aqualon and Odyssey being the most popular. It is a synthetic canvas coated with vinyl resin on the top and a water-resistant finish on the bottom. It's a good product and easy to work with and cheaper than the acrylic canvas that I will discuss below. The chief advantage is that it is virtually waterproof and mildew resistant. Also, because it is vinyl the color doesn't fade in sunlight. The chief disadvantage is it doesn't breathe and on hot nights it will still be uncomfortable to sleep on. But for areas that are frequently wet, this is a great choice and much better than naugahyde.

Last, the acrylic marine canvas is your best choice. There are several brands, the most popular being Sunbrella, but Outdura is also exceptional and less expensive. Advantages for marine use include UV resistance, water repellent, fade resistant, long-life and tear resistance. But most importantly, it breathes. The only disadvantage is cost, of the three choices, acrylic marine canvas is the most expensive. It does come in both 60' and 40' sizes so you can minimize wastage.

So to answer you question, I would go with acrylic marine canvas options. It will give you a nice seating surface and a breathable sleeping surface. Sunbrella comes in lots of different colors and patterns, Outdura has all the basic colors, but either one is a great choice for your application.

Hope this helps. Good luck,

Captain Mike Clayton

"

"

Hi Rick,

So far it looks like you've been doing all the right things and it sounds like you know what you are doing with the volt meter. I always start with the potentially simplest cause first, so in this case I would check the Tachometer unit itself and perhaps you have already. There is usually a fuse in the back of the unit, so check that first. Then remove the Tachometer unit from the circuit and use the volt meter to test the continuity to make sure there isn't a short in the unit itself. Commonly, there can be corrosion in the ground wire, or in the ground circuit that could cause the Tachometer to peg when powered. Although the clock works, it is independent of the Tachometer and does not guarantee that a short isn't present in the Tachometer circuitry. The fact that it pegs before even starting the engine tells me there is something wrong with the ground circuit.

If it is not the unit itself, then you will need to systematically check the continuity of the wires you replaced, right down to the terminals they are attached to, and perhaps you have already done that.

Assuming the continuity checks are OK, then it is possible that you have a ground fault somewhere in your engine circuit. I once had a battery cable that passed very close to the engine mount. Eventually, the plastic coating wore off of the cable and the wire came in contact with the engine block and all my electronics went crazy. Try testing the voltage between the battery -ve and the engine block, of course it should read close to 0.7 volts, but if you have more than that, then there could be some +ve volts getting in somewhere. The oil pressure sender is often a culprit, but you indicated that it is working properly, so it is unlikely to be this, but I would check just to be sure.

Lastly, I would try to get hold of a spare Tachometer, wire it into the circuit and see if it behaves the same. You're doing all the right things, but I would concentrate on the ground circuit, or the unit itself.

Once you get to the bottom of this, drop me a line with what you find, I'm curious. Hope this puts you on the right trail.

Good luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

"

"

Hello Joe,

The stainless steel rub rail itself is probably not the cause of the leak. It is more likely one of the following:

- A screw has passed too far in through the stainless rub rail allowing water ingress

- The bedding on a deck fitting like a jib track, stanchion base or toe rail is allowing water ingress

- Or, the big worry is that there is separation somewhere between the deck and the hull

You seem pretty certain that it is the rub rail, so let's assume for now that it is. Let's also assume that the rub rail is located over the deck to hull seam (don't know your boat, but this is likely the case). Remove all the screws and the rub rail, then inspect for separation of the deck to hull contact area. If there is no separation, you can reliably assume that it is one or more of the screws holding the rub railing to the boat. Inspect each of the screw holes carefully, the culprit may be obvious from staining. Clean and let dry for several days, then apply a polysulfide caulking to each of the screw threads before screwing them back in through the rub railing. Both 3M and Sika make high quality caulk in black and white colors. Let the polysulfide caulk cure for a day and then run water over the deck and rub railing. If this does not cure the leak, move on to the deck fittings, stanchions and toe rail in that order until you find the source of the leak.

Regarding replacement of the rub rail, unless it is a cosmetic eyesore I see no reason to replace it.

Good luck,

Captain Bob Wellen

"

"

Hi Glenn,

I like "Skelley's Kwik Strip Smart" chemical stripper, and I am sure there are many comparable brands. Using a chemical stripper in your boat will be fine provided you take to proper safety measures. Make sure you have adequate ventilation, a proper respirator (not dust mask) and good heavy duty acid proof gloves. This may sound like you are entering biological warfare, but it's not really that bad.

If there is a good breeze the day you do this, a wind scoop and open hatches should provide plenty of fresh air, if not, put a box fan in an open hatch blowing out of the boat and hence pulling in air from other open areas.

As for the stripping, apply the product liberally with throw away brushes, doing one area at a time. After a few minutes, you will notice the old paint bubbling up, when this comes to a stop scrape away. You will most likely have to repeat the process once. If there is still paint in any grain or grooves, use bronze wool to scrub it and get down into those voids.

When this is finished, sand the surface with a palm or dual action (DA) sander, starting with 80 grit, followed by 120, and 180. Now you should be ready to wipe clean with some denatured alcohol and start priming.

Let us know if you have any further questions.

Good luck,
Captain Craig Bliss

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Hi George,

The Cal 28 is a famous Bill Lapworth design built by Jensen Marine well into the late 70's. Since Jensen Marine is no longer in business, the next best thing is the Cal 28 Owners website at: http://www.stirlinglaw.com/cal28/. This site has everything you ever need to know about the Cal 28, including owner's manuals and original drawings and specifications.

The part you are describing is call the "stem fitting" and the website above is a good place to start to see if you can find an original replacement part. Failing that, you will need to find a good marine fabricator who can build one from scratch. It's likely the Cal 28 Owners site and the owner's manual will contain the original drawings of this fitting. Even if the drawings are not available, a good fabricator can reproduce the fitting exactly. I would advise that you go with stainless steel instead of aluminum as it will resist corrosion much better than aluminum in a marine environment. Also, the fabrication process with stainless is much easier than with aluminum.

Good luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Rick,

I don't believe there is a simple formula as such, but adding weight to the ends of your boat is always going to have some negative effect. That said, I fully understand the practicality of davits so here are a few things to bear in mind. Hull design involves the distribution of volume below the waterline in such a manner that the boat floats level at its designed waterline. What this means is some boats are affected less by davits than others because of their design. Modern designs tend to carry much more buoyancy aft than more classic designs and will consequently support the additional weight better. Many people make the mistake of adding an equal amount of weight to the bow of the boat (anchor and chain) to balance the load, but the result is loss of directional stability in large seas and the boat will tend to hobby horse more.

You didn't say what kind of boat you have, but my first advice is to contact the manufacturer and ask them to provide the safe weight load range for davits and tender, then stay under that number. So, try to find the lightest davits for the performance weight range, the lightest tender and the lightest outboard you can. I would also recommend investing in an outboard bracket and for long passages remove the outboard and flip the tender on the fore deck. I do this by simply attaching the painter to a halyard and then haul away (an easy job with two people). Make sure you lash it down well as the power of the water never ceases to amaze me when we take a big wave over the bow.

Lastly, when adding weight to the stern you must make sure that you don't submerge your exhaust, bearing in mind that the stern of the boat will suck down when you are underway. The easiest way to test before buying is to figure out the total weight (including fuel) that you will be adding and then assemble your friends who's combined weight is more or less equal to that weight and have them stand at the stern rail while you motor around the harbour. Submerging the exhaust outlet will increase back pressure and do some nasty things to the inside of your engine.

Good luck with your project.

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Robert,

SSB radio is the only way to go for the various regional cruising nets and weather forecasts and I have just the thing for you! There is a brand new manual specifically for the ICOM M-802 called "The Icom M802 Radio Manual for Idi-Yachts" by Captain Marti Brown. Note, this is different than the reference manual by the same author called Marine SSB Radio for Idi-Yachts - - that manual is expensive.

The new book for the M802 is about 200 pages and only cost $34.95 but it will teach you everything you need to know. It's easy to read and understand and gives you step-by-step instructions on sending and receiving SSB transmissions. It also gives you modem installation tips. This is where I would start and here's a link to purchase the manual online: CLICK HERE

Once you get the hang of SSB, a great way to test your transmit-and-receve capability is with weather guru Don Anderson on his marine SSB Amigo Net. He starts at 1415 UTC on 8.122.0 MHz, upper sideband, but the Icom 802 already has this stored in memory as channel 105.

Have fun.

Captain Michael Clayton

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Hi Trevor,

If the looseness of "play" you are feeling is vertical, it may be normal. Most winches have an inherent "play" in the drums to allow free movement. When you pull up on the drum there should be about 1/4 inch of play and that's normal. If the movement is a side to side wobble, you are likely missing vital components like needle bearings. In any case, the winches need a complete breakdown, cleaning and inspection, because even if everything seems OK, you could still be missing pawls or springs among other things.

You can find a diagram of the Barient 27 on www.cncphotoalbum.com. It gives you an exploded view as well as part numbers (even though it's now a Dodo, having the part number may allow you to find the corresponding replacement). At the very least, you can take inventory and know that you have all of the parts for the winch.

If you're not familiar with servicing winches, I would recommend you take them to a local rigger and have them inspect them. If you plan to service them yourself, there are some guidelines to follow on the same website I mentioned above. The absolute best way is to have an expert show you how its done - - paying a service technician and asking to watch to learn may work.

As for the size on your boat, the 27 will be a bit big, but should be fine as long as you have adequate operating room and most importantly, adequate room on the combing to mount the winch and the backing plate under it. If you do have room, then the 27's are going to look mean!

Happy winching,

Captain Craig Bliss

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Glenn,

Depending on the purchase price of the vessel, I would recommend securing full coverage (i.e. physical damage and liability) while you are doing the rehab. If your out-of-pocket expense for the purchase of the vessel was enough that you would like to insure the vessel itself, then go for a full coverage policy. This will protect you from damage to the boat caused by fire, tornado, theft, etc.

If the insurance company is willing to insure for Agreed Value, that will of course be the preferred option as opposed to Actual Cash Value. But due to the age of the vessel some insurance companies may only be willing to insure on an ACV basis. As an FYI, depending on where the boat is moored, Progressive Insurance will insure for Agreed Value up to $40,000 if the vessel is greater than 20 years old.

If your investment in the boat was minimal, and you are more worried about insuring the "finished product" after the rehab is complete, then you can get a liability-only policy which would protect you if the vessel caught fire and burned the boat(s) next to you, for example. Then once you're done with the upgrades, you can have the vessel surveyed and insure it for full coverage.

Liability-only will be the lower cost option, but unless it's significantly more expensive, I would still get full coverage.

Some companies (such as Progressive) allow their marine specialist agents to have broader acceptability than someone simply logging on to the website. So if you are unable to secure a full coverage quote via the web, don't lose hope!

Jake Hill

McGriff, Seibels & Williams

USPS Boat Insurance

800-763-8777

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Hi Glenn,

I have a friend who owned a 1968 Cal 40 for years and so I called him for help. He said the place to start is the Cal Owners Club (www.calyachts.org) where they have a good section on maintenance. I've also had good luck on a website called TechSavvy and I looked up Cal Boats and they have a number of Owners Manuals, but unfortunately not for the Cal 2-30, but still there may be information of interest there (www.richardanderson.net/TechSavvy/CAL_BOATS.html).

Getting your hands on an original Owners Manual may be a bit difficult, so I would start with the two websites above. I would also recommend that you post your question on the SailAngle.com Forum. There are a lot of Cal's and Ranger's (both manufactured by Jensen Marine) still sailing and it is quite possible someone on SailAngle.com may have a Cal 2-30.

Good luck,

Captain Michael Clayton

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Hello Bob,

Sounds like you have some pretty ambitious plans and working south from B.C. to Mexico is a good and safe way to build your offshore confidence. Now to answer your budget question; in my opinion there are three brackets basically separated by $1,200 increments. You didn't say how large your boat is, but for a cruising couple on a 35-40 foot boat here is the range you should expect:

Economy: plan on about $1,200 per month including food, fuel and supplies. This means always anchoring, no dockage fees, eating aboard, free entertainment options like hiking, fishing etc. instead of movies and paid excursions ashore, and lastly do it yourself maintenance.

Intermediate: plan on about $2,400 per month including food fuel and supplies. This means mostly anchoring, but occasional dockage, limited eating ashore, limited paid entertainment and occasional use of day workers for maintenance items.

Luxury: plan on about $3,600 per month including food, fuel and supplies. This means anchoring still, but dockage when desired and an occasional hotel room to get "off" the boat, occasional excursions with a rental car and paid entertainment, use of day workers for minor maintenance and skilled workers when necessary for maintenance.

Note: the figures above do not include medical care, travel home and the emergency kitty. I strongly recommend that you invest in an international medical insurance policy and there are several companies that specialize in this kind of coverage for sailors and the policies even include medical evacuation. Famous cruising sailors Lin and Larry Pardey published the following article on medical insurance for sailors LandLPardey Tips that recommends one carrier. The deductibles ($250-$5,000) will determine the cost and a policy with a $5,000 deductible will run about $2,700 annually depending on your age and you need to have the full deductible on board.

The figures above also do not include the cost of travel home so you should also have cash set aside for at least one trip home for each person for each year you expect to be gone.

Lastly, you need an emergency kitty for anything major that goes wrong and in my opinion this should be at least $3,000.

So, the answer is pick your monthly cruising plan above $1,200 | $2,400 | $3,600 and then add $2,700 medical insurance for each person (assuming 2 people = $5,400) and then add a cash kitty of around $10,000 to cover your medical deductible, travel home and emergency fund. So for one year of Economy Plan cruising you need $14,400 for monthly expenses + $5,400 for medical policies + $10,000 cash kitty, or $29,800. For one year of Luxury Plan cruising you need $43,200 for monthly expenses + $5,400 for medical policies + $10,000 cash kitty, or $58,600.

These are safe guidelines and of course they can be adjusted somewhat depending on your lifestyle, but I wouldn't plan on much deviation from the economy plan. Hope this helps.

Good Luck,

Captain Bob Wellen, Red Sky

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Hello Patrick,

To answer your specific question on the life raft I would need to know what kind of boating you are going to do. There are different grades of life rafts depending on the application. They range from commercial to coastal. For recreational boating, life rafts are ranked: coastal to 20 miles offshore; 20 to 50 miles offshore; and greater than 50 miles offshore.

In general, you should buy the best life raft you can afford - your life depends on it. Life rafts are expensive and often people skimp on quality to save cost, but if you are 100 miles offshore and have to abandon ship in a coastal raft you will pay the price. The extra insulation, ballast, first aid, and water/food provisions in the 50+ mile raft are vastly different from the coastal raft. These "extras" will allow you to survive for many days before rescue.

Next, you said 6 to 8 persons. Unfortunately, I've actually had to "step up" into a life raft several hundred miles offshore and it is not a pleasant experience. In my experience, a 6 person raft is barely tolerable for 4 people, so if you are thinking 6 people, I strongly recommend going with an 8-person raft. Not only will there be more supplies on board, but it will keep the crew comfortable. Definitely go with a covered raft - the sun is your enemy and a cover will also trap body heat and give protection from rain making it more comfortable.

As far as life raft manufacturers there are a lot of them, just make sure the raft you buy is approved for the kind of boating you will be doing. Personally I like Switlik, Avon, Winslow and Viking and all of these make rafts in each category.

As far as EPIRB's go, again there are differences as to whether they just send the locator beacon, or the beacon plus GPS coordinates. Obviously the more expensive models have the most features. Personally, I like ARC as a manufacturer and they make a wide range of EPIRB's. If you buy used, make sure it is a Category II 406 MHz model as the USCG no longer monitors the older models.

Hope this information helps. Here's hoping you never have to use the life raft and EPIRB.

Best,

Captain Craig Bliss

PS: If you are sailing far offshore I recommend your grab bag contain a hand operated fresh water maker; they are expensive, but the water rations on a life raft a minimal and the ability to make water will reassure your crew. I also recommend a battery operated hand-held GPS and lots of extra batteries.

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Hi Steve,

It sounds to me like you have put a lot of thought into this project and I completely understand your desire to keep the furler within the furler well.

In the professional marine industry we spend a huge amount of time making retro fits to boats and sometimes there is no other option than to go custom and have something fabricated to make it work the way you want it to. I do however, have some suggestions before you go custom:

First, check with Hood, they are used to retro fitting onto other boats and they may have a specific conversion kit for the Hunter 30. You are probably not the first person to retro fit and if you are lucky they might have already addressed this problem.

If Hood can't help, the next step I would consider is going semi-custom. If you can find a fitting at a local chandlery that is very close to what you need, then you can have it modified by a good metal fabricator to do the job you want it to. The semi-custom approach will definitely save you some money.

Finally, if all else fails, find a good marine fabricator and have them custom make the piece that will work as you need it to. Custom metal fabrication can sometimes be a little pricey, but ultimately you will get what you need to achieve your goal.

Best of luck Steve,

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Donna,

This question is a bit out of my league, but I searched the Internet and found the following link for scholarships at the Maine Maritime Academy:

http://www.mainemaritime.edu/financialaid/index.php?c1=FinancialAid&c2=Scholars

I think you will probably find all the information you need here. Looks like there are a number of financial aid possibilities.

Also, Randy White, the co-founder of SailAngle.com cast your question out to a number of USPS members and Rear Commander Bob Miller found the following link that also has a lot of scholarship information specific for maritime education.

http://www.nextstudent.com/directory-of-scholarship/Major/0225/Academic-Maritime-scholarships.aspx

Together these links should give you all the information you need, but you should also consider posting your question in the SailAngle Forum to see if other members have additional suggestions.

I wish you the best of luck Donna.

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Robert,

We're late shoving off for the Caribbean, but I got your question this morning and wanted to answer before we leave in the morning. New York is one of the best places on the planet to watch the fireworks on the 4th of July. A couple of years ago, we took a 94-foot yacht to North Cove Marina in Manhattan. On the evening of the 4th we motored over to the Statue of Liberty and anchored just to the east of her. We arrived about 1500 and by 1800 it began to get crowded, but not terrible. We enjoyed a nice dinner and wine and settled in for the show. The displays were amazing as we were able to see the Jersey show right behind Lady Liberty and were also able to see the display up the East River. When the shows were over, the crowds quickly dissipated and we motored back to the marina without incident. For dockage there are several marinas along the Hudson, but none more convenient than North Cove, also across the river is New Liberty Landing in New Jersey. Make advanced reservations at North Cove and without leaving the marina you will still have a good vantage point for the fireworks. Hope this helps.

Happy 4th!

Captain Craig Bliss

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Hello Trevor,

On rigs your size I generally tune them by feel, but when tuned it's going to be in the range of 800 to 1,000 lbs on the stays and 500 to 700 lbs on the shrouds. You will want the cap shrouds a bit more taut than the lowers. Mind you I am not recommending you apply these loads to your rig immediately after restepping the mast.

Follow the traditional tuning steps for your type of rig which I am assuming is a masthead rig. After you have stepped the mast, to initially align it, use a no-stretch tape measure taken all the way up the main halyard and measure side-to-side on the deck at a sheet track, chain plate or spot on the sheer line - - the further outboard the better. Tighten the cap shrouds until the measurement side-to-side is equal and then take up on your lowers followed by your headstay and backstay. Keep adjusting and measuring until you can only get an inch or two of deflection while pushing on the cap shrouds and slightly more on the lowers.

As I said, this should serve as a good starting point for the tune. Next, you need to take the boat out in 8-10 knots of breeze and adjust the rig while tacking. Make very small adjustments to tighten the shrouds as needed port and starboard to keep the mast in column on each tack.

I hope this helps and give us a shout if you have any more questions.

Happy tuning,

Captain Craig Bliss

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Hi Robert,

Doing a passage from the Chesapeake to the Penobscot Bay region is a great first long distance cruise to make if you are a good bay sailor and want to stretch you wings a bit to get a taste of inland and near coastal sailing. It is an excellent stepping stone to eventual blue water ocean passage making.

Regarding the best time to make the passage up and back for favorable winds? This sort of passage is one that has no basis for seasonal historic wind patterns, rather is based more on air temperatures and frequency of storms either spring or fall. My recommendation (assuming you have no fixed schedule) is to plan to arrive no sooner than July 1st and plan to depart in early September. These dates will give you the best temperature and rain comfort.

Plan on taking two weeks both ways and you should be able to pick your weather windows. Leave the Chesapeake through the C&D canal, down the Delaware, through the Cape May Canal, then for your first near coastal passage jump outside to round New Jersey and stop just outside New York City in Sandy Hook. Then on through NYC, but time the East River for the tides as Hells Gate can have significant adverse currents. From there you have simple day sails through Long Island Sound to Block Island. From there follow the islands to the entrance to the Cape Cod Canal. Again tide timing is critical to motor the length of the Cape Cod Canal as there are peak current times. Then it is a jump to Provincetown on the hook of Cape Cod.

Your second near coastal passage begins at Provincetown. You can pick your stops between there and Penobscot Bay, passing over some of the greatest whale watching grounds available or sail straight through to Rockland or Camden Maine just inside the Penobscot Bay's Western shore. There you can facilitate repairs and provisioning before cruising your way through the bay to North East Harbor. I like your choice of North East Harbor as it is one of my favorite spots too.

One last caution, June and July can be quite foggy, so skill with radar equipment is pretty important when cruising anywhere from Long Island Sound to Maine. August and September tend to have less fog, but it can always roll in unannounced.

Safe passage,

Captain Bob Wellen

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Hey Mark,

I have had some recent experience in this field after we ran into a large pot just a few weeks ago about 300 miles off the coast of New England on the way to the Caribbean. To add insult to injury, it was at night making it even harder to determine exactly where the lines under the boat were running. Some time for reflection after the incident, as always, has given me some ideas about how to deal with this situation if it happens again.

Assuming you are sailing and not motoring, the likelihood is that the line is caught around the front of your keel, or between the keel and the rudder. In either case, DO NOT start your engine. If the line is just caught on the rudder, or keel you have a very good chance of freeing it, but once it gets wrapped around your propeller, there's no choice, you're going swimming.

First thing is to drop sail, you don't need the aggravation of the boat trying to sail whilst dealing with the situation. Also, if you are lucky, your boat will now drift backwards and away from the lines, freeing you from the tangle.

If this doesn't work and you are still stuck, it's time to move on to Stage-2. Find a way to cut the lines to the buoys, either by lifting them out of the water to gain access, or a sharp bread knife taped securely to a boat hook will also work. The idea here is that the lines, which typicallly sink, will sink away from your boat and you will more easily drift away from the tangle. If any fishermen want to take issue with this, you can find my location on the SailAngle.com Google map - - come see me and I will be happy to discuss!!!

Failing this, it really is time to go swimming (Stage-3). If it is night, best to wait until morning to gain some visibility, also swimming at night flashing a light around can bring some very big and unwanted predators. Take a flotation device and a line that tethers you to the boat with a quick release in case it becomes tangled. You will need to cut the line free and to do this there is nothing that works better than a sharp bread knife - - no $200 dive knife gets through line quicker than a high quality Wusthof or Global knife and I recommend everybody should carry one as a part of their safety kit.

Always give consideration to what kit you might need if you have to go swimming. Here's my list: mask, snorkel, fins (not too large), bread knife, wetsuit depending on climate, a tether with a quick release, underwater light, and a flotation device. Position crew on deck with a throwing line. Get in, go about your work quickly, and get out.

Happy sailing Mark and watch out for those pots.

Regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Mike,

I would definitely paint rather than gelcoat. For one, painting is much easier and usually leads to a much nicer result for DIY projects, leave gelcoat for a professional yard. Interlux brand coatings (http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/) are the ones I know best and I've always had good results with these paints. There are others you could research, but I would start with the Interlux site and read the instructions. It will go something like ... abrade the surface with sandpaper starting heavier down to a specific small grit paper, apply their primer, then paint. You can either spray or brush depending on your skill level.

Not to discount your boat for less than it is, and I do not mean to offend, but my guess is if you are trailering this 1978 boat and are going to knock about with it ... you probably want to improve the look of her, but are probably not looking for a million dollar finish. If that is the case, I might suggest you look into Pettit brand products (http://www.pettitpaint.com/), specifically their Easypoxy brushable paints. They are very economical and can be rolled on quickly and back-brushed for a very nice finish that could look amazing for a fraction of the time and money of spraying. Go to their website for product selection and instructions.

I will leave you with one last thought ... the rule in painting and varnishing is preparation is the key to a great finish. The more time you spend preparing the surface, the better the finish.

Good luck,

Captain Bob Wellen

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Hi Eric,

No, Red Sky is a totally private yacht. However, there are several large Swan yachts for charter, some 82's a 90 and a 112. The following website details Swan Yachts for charter in the Caribbean:

http://www.swanyachts.co.uk/CaribbeanSailingYachts.htm

For larger charter yachts you should also check out Camper and Nicholsons and Edmiston; both represent a large fleet of yachts.

The brand new Swan 82 that fellow Ask-a-Pro Captain Ian Fagg runs does charter, so if you're interested, look him up in the member profiles and send him an inquiry?

Happy chartering,

Captain Bob Wellen

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Hi Steven,

Ah Ha! The age old question. There is little doubt that the chemical products on the market have some impressive results. The downside is that they suck the natural oils out of the teak and ultimately reduce the life you will get out of it. Also, any Phosphoric or Oxalic acid based products like many of the chemical "brighteners" will damage anodized aluminum and some paints.

I use a mixture of about 200 ml of household bleach and the same amount of Cascade dishwasher crystals mixed together in a bucket of water. Use that solution with lots of scrubbing with a medium scotch bright pad rubbing always across the grain, never with the grain. Then rinse with plenty of water.

The bleach kills any mildew and the Cascade cleans the wood. Using this mix will be far less harsh on the teak than anything you can buy in a ship's store, and it is much cheaper and the results are great. After the treatment, use a good quality teak oil rubbing it into the teak with a soft clean cloth.

Happy scrubbing,

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Sut,

I can't speak with any personal experience from using any Manson anchors, but over the past several years I have looked at a number of anchors that employ a similar design with the fixed fluke and the roll bar to right it if it lands upside down, or to help re-set the anchor if it trips when the wind changes direction. From all the reviews I have read these "style" of anchors are getting superb reviews and in particular the Manson is also endorsed highly by Lloyds (something not to be sniffed at in my opinion).

You are right about the size, 16 lbs is too light for a 31 foot boat; the old rule is about 1 lb per foot, and then it never hurts to add a little.

The downside to the Supreme will be that it won't perform as well over rock. For rock and coral there is no substitute for the Bruce, or Ray as Manson calls it. The second problem with using the Supreme over rock is that it will damage the sharp tip, or bend it, and the tip is important to dig in through sand, mud and especially to help it bury into weed and grass bottoms.

Bottom line, Manson Supreme looks like a terrific anchor, especially with the Lloyds rating. I would recommend you go for the 35 lb anchor and make sure the tip remains sharp and in good condition. I would also recommend carrying a second anchor, preferably a Bruce, when you anchor over rock. Carrying and setting two anchors in a big blow like you described, particularly against a lee shore is always advisable. If you have swing room, no harm in letting out more chain that the books suggest - - this will let you sleep well.

Safe anchoring,

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Trip,

Just looked your boat up on the SailAngle website to see what we are dealing with, she's a pretty boat. Usually, you would associate using epoxy barrier coats with the hull below the water line. The purpose of a barrier coat is to prevent osmosis, as epoxy, unlike polyester, will not absorb water. As the deck of the boat is not constantly submerged (I hope) using a barrier coat isn't necessary.

However, I recommend sticking with marine grade paints for the deck. Even if you don't want to use a 2-part epoxy paint, I would still recommend using something that is of a marine quality; semi-gloss enamel simply won't hold up to the elements and normal wear and tear.

I really liked the lines of your boat and would encourage you to upload some pictures of your work in your photo album - - it would be funn to see the progress.

Best of luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Steve,

Sadly this is a tough call. The problem you have is that while the rest of the gelcoat, or paint, surrounding the boat name has faded in the sun, the name has protected the gelcoat, or paint, beneath the lettering. Thus, when you remove the old name you will still see it.

You can use rubbing compound and it will make it better, but to remove all traces of the previous boat name, you need to re-paint the whole transom (assuming the name is on the transom). Any good boat yard should be able to repaint the transom without hauling the boat and blend the edges into the rest of the hull such that you would be hard pressed to notice the difference.

Finally, when replacing the name I would strongly recommend using a marine clear vinyl decal rather than paint. Somewhere around your marina will be a graphic artist who specializes in clear vinyl decals and they are much easier to apply and the results look very sharp indeed.

Good luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

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Hi Larry,

This is a pretty smart idea. I have seen a number of rigs that utilize such systems and the principle remains the same. When your mast is laid flat, you need to get a strong pole approximately 5-feet in length and attach it securely to the base of the mast pointing vertically upward; perhaps using something like a stanchion base for the pole to slot into would work well, just make sure it is secure. Next, you need to make sure it can't slip sideways. Take two pieces of 8mm line from the top of the pole to something secure, one either side of the boat (the chain plates should work well) and put them under a little tension to ensure that the pole is laterally secure. Now attach another piece of line from the top of the pole to a position approximately 5-feet up the mast, and then lastly attach the trailer winch to the top of the pole to pull the whole rig up.

It may be preferable to rig the base of the pole so it can hinge and angle it back a little toward the mast for more leverage. Each case is unique and I am sure that what works best for your situation will become more apparent when you begin measuring it all and setting it in place. In physics terms, the short 5-foot pole becomes your lever arm and pivot point. Sounds like a nice winter project, and should make setting your mast effortless.

Cheers,

Captian Ian Fagg

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Hi Ray,

Assuming you are talking about non-slip painted decks, the best thing I have found is to use Soft Scrub (with bleach) and a firm brush. I used to run a J 160 and I did this all the time and the decks always looked great. If you have any rust staining you could use a little FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover). Rub this in with a toothbrush then let it sit for a few minutes then rub again as necessary, then rinse off with fresh water. This should do the trick.

If the paint you are referring to is not non-slip, such as the sides of your coach roof or cockpit, then first try a fiberglass/paint restorer, 3M makes quite a nice one, but if you need something a little stronger try the 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material that I recommended in Pro’s Products. I use this product a lot, and love it. If you have access to a mechanical buffer, this will take out a lot of the work for you. Give the restorer a try first.

Cheers, Ian

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Hi Ray,

Your second question about the Teak is probably the most asked question in the world and there will be 100 different answers, here is mine: I too like my teak trim and decks to look like new, unfortunately to achieve this means undertaking some pretty harsh treatment, scrubbing in one manner or another. There are a number of chemical cleaners on the market that will take out some of the hard work, but ultimately will give your teak a work out and remove the natural oils. Instead I like to use about 1 cup of bleach (Clorox) and 1 cup of dishwashing crystals mixed together in a bucket of water. Use a soft brush to scrub the teak in a circular motion also allowing it to sit for a while for the bleach to soak in and kill the mildew, rinse with massive amounts of water. Work in small areas; about 3ft square if doing the deck. Another good substitute for the bleach and dishwashing crystals is Oxy Clean as it contains the bleach already. If you try this, I think you will be pleased.

Good luck, Ian

"

" Hi Sean,

The trip to Bermuda from New England is a great leg for your first true offshore passage, and will always be one of my favorites.

Depending on how seasoned your friend is with offshore passages, it is certainly doable by two people. But I believe it would be safer to go with another experienced sailor for the sake of safety. While the Finngulf likely has an autohelm, you can't count on them because they can fail. Also, an autohelm simply can't handle certain extreme sailing conditions, thus a competent helmsman is required on the wheel. Last, should a situation arise on deck that requires more than one set of hands, things could get nasty with only two people on board.

As for when to go, official Hurricane Season is from June 1st to November 30th. Most boats heading south will leave the Newport area around the end of October or early November, after careful evaluation and cross referencing of weather forecasting and gulf stream analysis from several different sources. A prudent skipper will know the resources available.

Considering that you're gong to Bermuda and then back, June may be the best time to go as it is on the shoulder of hurricane season and the weather will probably be better. In October-November you run the risk of a Nor-easter and that can be bad news in the Gulf Stream.

I hope it works out and you get to make the trip, keep us posted.

Craig
"

" Hi Dan,

I'm not really 100% sure what causes the fogging. It is likely that sun ages the plastic and hence losing some of its elastic properties causes what appears to be fog.

Canvas covers are an option but the downside is cost to make and another thing to stow somewhere and fiddle with as it molds in some locker. My recommendation is to have the dodger built with replacement of the clear vinyl once during the life of the dodger.

Build into the design such that the edges of the clear vinyl are stitched to the canvas in such away that the vinyl can be removed and new installed at a later date so as not to destroy the integrity of the surrounding canvas. Typical dodgers (with care) will last 4 to 6 years so anticipate replacement of the clear vinyl in 3 to 4 years.

Bob Wellen
"

" Hi Patrick,

This sounds like an interesting project. First let me start with your 2nd question regarding the modification of the boat from a gas engine to a diesel engine. Gas and diesel engines are fundamentally very different in design so to begin, it would be necessary to replace the gas engine with a properly sized diesel. From there on things would be reasonably straight forward. You would need to plum in a return fuel line back to the tanks as a diesel requires a feed and return whilst gas engines only require a feed. I would also recommend you flush the tanks to remove any trace of gas fumes before beginning any work on them, or before filling with diesel. I think changing from gas to diesel is an excellent idea, I am sure you are aware gas and its fumes are highly combustible. I would also recommend you consult an experienced diesel engineer concerning the specifications and the finer details of the project before you begin.

Your 1st question was regarding the possibility of placing a sail rig on the boat. From a positive perspective, indeed many trawling vessels traditionally carry small mizzen sails called Spankers, these were more to provide stability to the vessel in a rolling sea rather than to power the vessel. Linda Greenlaw, in her book about tall fishing tales describes working on a trawler for a guy who lost his engines, being too proud to ask for a tow, he managed to sail the vessel back to land under a jury rig he set up at sea. So, yes there is no reason you wouldn’t be able to rig a sail and gain something from sail power.

The big difference between a sail boat and power boat is lateral resistance, the ability of the boat to prevent from slipping sideways through the sea when the sails are rigged. For this reason sail boats have keels of some description. Designed for working offshore, your trawler will probably have a reasonable stability curve, but the lateral resistance will need to be addressed. There are many options to do this such as having a drop or swing keel which is retractable to enable you to still frequent shallow harbors, another idea would be to add a plate either side of the existing keel, so in effect you now have three keels, the benefit of this would be the ability to dry out on a beach to do bottom work.

My advice is to keep the rig short and your sailing expectations low, at best you are going to gain a little fuel economy and some slow sailing when the wind is aft of the beam, but it will give you the ability to make land if your engines fail. Again please consult an experienced naval architect before jumping in with both feet.

On the cost, this really depends on your specifications and the size of the vessel, how long is a piece of string.

Have fun with it and keep floating.

Ian Fagg
(Sailangle.com)
"

" Hi Marty

I am not familiar with the provisioning package offered by Moorings, but I suspect it will be pretty basic. Provisioning in Rhode Town is pretty easy, the supermarket is very close to the Moorings base the main one being Bobby's although you may need to visit more than one to get all you want. If you are planning on eating ashore much, it may be more economic to just provision for what you need. Again I am not familiar with their deal on this subject.

On the itinerary the hot spots are.... Great Harbour on Peter Island, The Baths on Virgin Gorda, athough this can be rolly and you may choose to move over to Spanish Town for the evening. The Bitter End Yacht Club is a nice spot in Virgin Gorda. White bay on Guana Island, very quite. The Bight on Norman Island is a nice spot to take a mooring, and you can stop off in the Indians on the way for some spectacular snorkelling. Trellis bay in Beef island E. of Tortola has a nice restaurant called the Last Resort on the island in the middle of the bay. Also if you feel adventurous take the boat out to Anegada to the main Harbour and go ashore for a Lobster lunch.

On the routing you can pretty much get from one end of the BVI's to the other in a day so take your pick and it really depends on how much sailing you want to do in the day. I usually end up zig zagging around a fair bit.

Enjoy, we hope you have a great vacation and if you have any further queries please do not hesitate to post a further question.

Regards

Ian Fagg
"

" Hi Randy, well generally speaking 7,000 hours is a lot of hours for a diesel, but you've obviously taken very good care of the engine. You didn't say whether you've had the top end re-built, which is an option, but I assume you are wondering about re-powering, so my answer depends on what you're getting ready to do. If you're setting off on a world cruise or long passage, you should re-power because you don't want trouble on passage. However, if you're just doing coastal cruising and the engine isn't giving you any difficulty, I've seen Volvo's last for 10,000 hours. Hope this helps. "