Hi Chuck,

I'd love to say, don't worry, we've all done the same thing at some point, but to be honest, I haven't. Nonetheless, my boating days aren't over yet, so there is always the chance, and so we're laughing with you not at you.

The famous sailor Nigel Calder has actually written on this very subject. It seems that the solution is to use alcohol!!!

But, before you start, immediately isolate the tank from the boat's pumps and plumbing as both fuel and alcohol can swell and damage the rubber seals and valves. You must use a remote pump if possible with a pipe in through the inspection hatch if you have one, alternatively disconnect the outlet hose and connect this to your remote pump, then replace the outlet hose after the problem is resolved.

First, you will have to empty your tanks and dispose of the contaminated water appropriately, a good marine engineer will have a facility for this.  Next step is to rinse the tank with alcohol and lots of it. A rubbing alcohol is best, but failing that, the cheapest, strongest Vodka you can find will also work well.

Tip, place a generous amount (3-4 gallons) of the alcohol into the tank and if possible slosh it around a bit. If possible, unbolt your tank enough to tilt it back and forth. This will tackle the majority of the fuel scum left behind after the initial draining. Pump out the alcohol and fuel now in the bottom of the tank and dispose of properly.

There will still be residual fuel on the walls of the tank that you need to deal with. Again pour a generous amount of alcohol into the tank - - about 2 gallons for a 100 gallon tank and then fill it to the top with water. Let this mixture sit for several hours, the longer the better, then pump dry. If you can still smell, or taste fuel after this, repeat the treatment until you can neither smell or taste fuel.

Ultimately, this process will clear your tanks.

Good luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Chuck,

Trust me, you're not the first. I like Ian's answer though and I would certainly trust Nigel Calder's solution.

But, just in case, a friend of mine did the same thing and this was his solution. It assumes you have an aluminum tank and not plastic and you will need to locate an electric recirculating pump before you start.

First, drain the tank disposing of the gasoline mixture properly, then open the inspection port and using liquid dish washing detergent scrub the inside of the tank as best you can. Rinse with fresh water and repeat.

Now, fill the tank full of water, add half a bottle of liquid dish washing detergent, then using a garden hose connect the recirculating pump through the inspection port and let it run 4-6 hours. That should pull off the residual on the walls of the tank.

Drain and flush the tank with fresh water until you no longer get soap suds forming. Then fill the water tank with fresh water and add 1 cup of bleach for every 10 gallons of tank capacity. Let that stand overnight, or at least 8 hours, but not longer than 24 hours. Some people complain that this is corrosive to aluminum and it might be if left longer, but less than 24 hours should pose no problem.

Empty the tank, again disposing of properly; i.e. not discharged into the water. Repeatedly fill and drain the tank until there is no chlorine odor, then fill with fresh water and this should solve the problem.

Hope this helps.

Best,

Captain Michael Clayton

Hi Skip,

Over the years I have dabbled in fiberglass, paint and gelcoat repairs and I know enough to tell you that adding a door is certainly possible. I've seen far more ambitious DIY projects successfully completed and short of taking a look myself, I can't think of any real serious issues.

However, as a first time DIY project, this is probably not something to attempt without some professional help. I've seen DIY projects that are beautiful and then those that to be kind are less than beautiful and what usually separated the two projects was professional involvement at least at the beginning if not all the way through the project. So, that's my first recommendation as a semi-successful project may devalue your boat more than it will cost to have it done with professional help.

That said, I think the principle would be to cut out the shape of the door from the inside and outside, saving the cut outs for the swing of the door itself. Then I would make hardwood frames to fill the gap between the wall of the transom as well as for the door. These frames should be treated to prevent rot. Fix the frames in position with epoxy and then laminate over them with glass fiber. These surfaces can then be fared smooth and painted/gelcoated to match the surrounding transom and cockpit. Again I think this is pretty ambitious for the first-time DIY laminator, but then I don't know your level of competence.

It's been my experience that if you are friendly and ask, most yards are willing to let DIY owners work alongside the professionals to learn from the experience.

Best of luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hello Vic,

You have a legitimate concern with the use of E-10 or similar types of fuel. The nature of the problem, is that ethanol has a high affinity to water and E-10 fuel at 60 degrees will "absorb" as much as 3.8 teaspoons of water per gallon.

Specifically in the marine industry, having vented fuel systems, low turnover of stored fuel, significant temperature fluctuations, and also being in a high humidity environment, the fuel will quickly pick up this moisture. On a small scale, this is not a problem as the suspended fuel will be burned off in the engine under continued fuel consumption. The real problem begins with stored fuel deterioration which in E-10 fuels begins after a couple of months and rapidly increases in 3-6 months. As the ethanol breaks down and evaporates, the moisture in released from suspension and settles out as water in the fuel tank and the octane level of the fuel begins to lower. Once that happens the problems get worse. That's why you should never store E-10 fuel over a winter season.

Here are some practical considerations that may help:

1. Consider installing a preliminary fuel/water separator with no more than a 30 micron filter, and let your primary engine fuel filter serve as the smallest filter in the system.


2. Here's a good suggestion, use your boat more often and burn off your fuel keeping it "fresh" with the highest grade available.


3. Treat your fuel (which you are doing) with additives such as "Sta-Bil" or "Gas Shok." Caution, keep in mind that additives can change the octane level.

Regardless, I highly recommend you seek out professional advice from you local boat dealer and send off an email to the engine manufacturer describing what you want to do, and seek their recommendations for a preliminary fuel/water separator. Good luck with this one, there is no one simple solution to the problem.

Lastly, there are a number of organizations fighting the E-10 regulations, the NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) for one, so get involved and add your voice to the growing concern of other recreational boaters. If this fuel trend continues, then it certainly gives more credence to diesel considerations; Yanmar and Yamaha make diesel outboards and there are a number of Chinese models as well. If the trend continues, expect to see more diesel outboards.

Hope this helps,

Captain Gordon Hartschuh

Hi Vic,

You bring up some great points. Ethanol will also eat up old seals, hoses and fiberglass tanks produced prior to 1984. Ethanol is reactive and may release rust particles in steel tanks that will go straight through your filter and on to clog the fuel jets in your carburetor.

The problem is that E-10 fuel absorbs water and us boaters are surrounded by water. The second issue is that the daily heating an cooling of fuel in a marine environment accelerates that process. So when you have warm days and cool nights, more water gets absorbed. For this reason, I recommend that you never keep E-10 fuel longer than 45-60 days.

To help the problem you can add a pre-filter to your fuel system and of course what you are already doing which is additives like "Sta-Bil".

All the best,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi Thomas,

I'm not familiar with how your current floor is fitted to your furniture and cabinetry, but it's either flush fit or under the furniture with a finish molding. Either way, the first thing you need to do is make a master pattern of all the pieces out of construction paper. Number the floor boards in order then carefully and precisely cut the construction paper to the exact dimensions of each section of the sole. I use an Exacto knife pictured below.

Once you have the master pattern in construction paper, take it out on the dock and assemble the paper sole. Teak and Holly marine plywood comes in 1/4, 3/4 and 1/2 inch thickness and in standard sheets of 4 x 8 feet. An excellent source is Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, Rhode Island, click HERE to go to their website. A 4 x 8 foot sheet of Teak and Holly plywood is listed at $410 each.

With the master pattern laid out, measure to determine the square feet you will need. Because of the irregular shapes of cabin soles and the desirability of uniform direction you may need two sheets to match the pattern.  Once you know how much you need, place the order.

As far as removing the old floor, the lifting floor boards are easy.  Fixed boards are fastened in several different ways, sometime screwed from underneath, sometimes pegged, sometimes glued. I don't know how Islander fastened your sole, but it should be obvious to you on inspection.  As the floor is being replaced, you don't have to be careful removing the old floor, in fact a chisel and crowbar often works wonders.

Now you're ready to replace the floor.  Find the center line on the master pattern that runs all the way from the V-berth back to the companionway and mark it on all of the patterns.  Align the center line on the master pattern with a holly stripe on the plywood and use a fine point Sharpie to lay out the pattern on the plywood. What you're looking for is uniformity of pattern and fore-aft alignment of the holly stripes. Important, for all the outboard pieces, leave an extra 1/8 inch on the outboard edge (this will be used to adjust fit later). Once you are satisfied, number each section using a small piece of masking tape, then you're ready to cut.

Use a hand-held jigsaw fitted with a "finish" blade and cut the pattern. Set up saw guides so your cuts will be straight and then go very slow so you obtain a good finished edge. Stop after the first piece has been cut and take it into the boat and make sure it "fits" properly in place. Repeat until all the pieces are cut and ready to install.  Last step is to sand the edges.

Important note: Marine grade plywood needs to be "sealed" on the edges. Use a thin coat of marine grade epoxy to fill the plywood and than I use a couple of coats of Thompsons Water Seal over the epoxy. This will prevent any moisture penetration that could lead to delamination and rot and the epoxy will build up the surface just enough to ensure the boards fit tightly.

To ensure a tight fit, start in the center of the cabin and lay all the pieces in place.  With the extra 1/8 inch on the outboard edge, you'll be able to make small adjustments for fit toward the center pieces. Make sure you keep the center pieces in perfect alignment and adjust fit by trimming the outboard edges. Once you have a tight fit, remove all the boards and start with the outboard pieces and work to the center fastening the pieces as per the method Islander uses.  Before you know it, your boat will look brand new.

Good Luck

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Julie,

Please excuse my bluntness, but stay as far away from that boat as possible. You cannot believe the amount of work it would take to make the vessel safe and seaworthy.

Age has little to do with a nice sailing vessel, it's the condition that matters and I think it's great that you are considering the purchase and revival of an old needy boat. I must admit that I have a fondness for old boats in need, but don't let the attractive price sway you. The project to bring the boat back may cost a small fortune. Just keep poking around and I'm sure you will find the right boat, just not this one.

If you do decide to go for it, make sure you hire a quality marine surveyor as they will advise you as to the extent of the damage and whether she can be made structurally sound. Never buy without a marine survey - - the cost of the survey is tiny in comparison to what hidden damage can cost later.

Keep looking and drop me a note on SailAngle if you find something and want an opinion.

All the best,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi Julie,

Sorry for this news, but the situation you are describing is a significant problem that is a telltale sign of continuing problems in the future and will do nothing byt get worse over time. Being a common stock production boat, my suggestion is to pass on this one and continue looking. The work involved to repair this is possibly more costly than the savings and will likely just be the beginning of additional problems.

Hope this helps and good luck with your search,

Captain Gordon Hartschuh

Hello H.E.,

The "A" or alpha designation on your VHF simply means a "U.S." channel.  Some European VHF's are not equipped with a "USA" mode and would have to find another working channel with the Coast Guard. So when the Coast Guard gives you a working channel followed by "alpha" that is their way of designating a US mode channel.

All the best,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi H.E.,

Alpha simply means that you need to be on a U.S. compatible simplex channel (sends and receives on the same frequency).  The Coast Guard will usually say something like switch to 21-Alpha.  If you have a VHF that is switchable between US and International, it is the Coast Guard's way of making sure the set is switched to U.S. mode.

Best,

Captain Mike Clayton

Hi H.E.,

The Cost Guard instruction word of "alpha" is for the letter "A". They are instructing you to change to a channel such as 22A on your VHF radio. The "A" following the channel number is an indicator for an American or U.S. channel specifically designated by the U.S. Coast Guard. This means your VHF radio needs to be a U.S. compatible radio - - the frequencies differ slightly from International models.

You probably haven't noticed but on most U.S. manufactured VHF models with a digital screen showing the channel designation, the "A" will appear to the right of the channel number. The number is usually much larger than the letter, so unless you are looking for it most people will miss it.

Hope this helps,

Captain Gordon Hartschuh

Hi Dave,

The answer to your question is yes it can be repaired; any qualified marine mechanic can repair the unit for you. If you want to do it yourself, then you are going to need the Hino service manual and wiring diagrams.

Tachometer failure is due to only two sources; 1. Failure of the sending unit (mechanical or electrical), or 2. Failure of the gauge itself. Without knowing exactly your twin engine set up, and whether you have a mechanical or electrical take-off for the sending unit, it's a little hard for me to imagine, but if possible, there is a simple test you can perform to determine if it is the sending unit or the gauge.

Since the starboard tachometer is working, if you disconnect the wiring from the starboard sending unit, and assuming the wiring harness is long enough so you can reconnect it to the port engine, you can diagnose the problem easily. If you now start the port side engine and the starboard side tachometer works, you know the problem lies with the gauge itself. If the starboard side tachometer doesn't work, then it is the sending unit.

If it is the gauge itself, it might be a bigger problem because of the age of the boat.  Finding the exact matching tachometer might be difficult in which case you might have to replace both tachometers to have them match. If it is the sending unit, that's much easier to find the right replacement.

So my suggestion is reverse the connection for the working starboard side tachometer to diagnose the problem and then proceed with a do it yourself project based on the outcome. If it is the gauge, then I would replace both tachometers and while at it, the sending units also. If it is just the port side sending unit that is bad, then I would replace only that sending unit.

Hope this helps,

Captain Michael Clayton

Hello Glenn,
 
Lifting a dingy with a motor using a small block and tackle assembly will greatly reduce the strain on your back.  The only concern I see is two fold: first I would verify with Hurley that the model davits on your particular vessel are designed to carry the weight you are anticipating and second that the stern navigation light will not be blocked with the position of the new dingy and larger motor.
 
Common block and tackle systems are usually in the ratios of 4:1 to 8:1 although higher ratios are obtainable.  Harken sailing hardware has an excellent website to assist in determining solutions to your problem.  The first link I would recommend is for reeving diagrams at www.harken.com click HERE to go directly to the reeving diagrams.  For an example, if you want to calculate the force required to lift a 250 pound vessel with a 4:1 ratio system, you would divide the force by 4, this will yield a 62.5 pound pull to lift the weight.  The 4:1 system shown on the above link consists of a double block which would attach to the dingy and a double block with a becket that would attach to the yacht.  You will also need to calculate 5 times the length of your lift to have an adequate amount of line for a block and tackle system.
 
Far more elaborate systems are available, click HERE to see them, although I do not think this is necessary to solve your problem.
 
Keep in mind that this is a linear force that only pulls in a straight line.  The option to side load the dingy onto the davits may be the only way to use a block and tackle.  The videos I saw on Hurley’s website http://www.hurleymarine.com/ showed an option of pulling the dingy up and out of the water then slightly rotating the dingy to seat onto the cradle.  This rotation may prove to be difficult depending on the angle of pull or possibly the attachment point on the dingy.  Before drilling any holes I would experiment with various angles of pull to determine the best.
 
Hope this assists you,
Captain Gordon L Hartschuh

Hi Glenn,

This is the first time I have heard about Hurley Davits, so I checked them out and they look pretty convenient. As for your question, a block and tackle will definitely solve your hoisting problem. But first things first - - you need to talk with Hurley and make sure your davits are rated for the final load including the new engine. Once that's known you're OK to move on to designing the block and tackle layout.

Since I don't know your boat's layout, I can't help you design it, but it sounds like you have room on your aft cabin top to put a base for your block and tackle and I assume this location would be high enough to give you a good angle of pull (60 to 45 degrees is optimum). I would recommend a 4 to 1 block and tackle (a.k.a. a double block). This will give you 100 lbs. of lift for about 25 lbs. of pull. Since you are lifting at the angle above and not straight up, it should be sufficient. If your back won't take the strain, you can always run the lifting line to a winch and it will be a breeze to lift.

When you mount your pad eye to the cabin roof, be SURE to through bolt it and reinforce it to spread the load. If you use unreinforced self tapping fasteners you are guaranteed to rip the eye out and find yourself in the water.

Finally, make yourself a suitable dingy bridle as follows. You will need at least three, preferably four connection points on the dinghy. Minimally you need two at the stern and one at the bow, but I prefer two bow and two stern connection points (belt and suspenders kind of guy). Bring the four lines to the center and connect them to your hoist line. Trial and error is the next part; adjust the lengths of all four connectors until you find the right length where the dinghy is balanced fore and aft and athwartship when raised a foot or so above the water. Keep adjusting the lines until you find the balance point, then you're set. Now your new block and tackle system should raise the dingy easily and balanced.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Best,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi Helen,

Normally, I would associate water in the oil with a blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder head which would either occur from overheating the engine, an old gasket that has worn out, or a bad installation of the gasket from new or at replacement. If this is the case, then the engine would require a new gasket and the head should be inspected by a mechanic and be pressure tested before re-installation. This is a pretty big job and unless you are pretty handy with a wrench, I would get it done by a professional.

There is an easy way to test this before you pull the engine apart. The head gasket in the engine separates the flow of cooling water through various channels from the piston cylinders where the head and block are bolted together. If there is a breach (even hairline) in the gasket, then the cooling water is able to get from the cooling channels into the piston chambers and thus into the oil. If this is the case you will notice three things when the engine is running:

1. The engine will begin to overheat as the oil emulsifies and looses its ability to lubricate the engine.


2. The cooling water level will begin to drop as the water leaks into the piston chambers and into the oil reservoir.


3. You will notice air bubbles, bubbling up into the header tank.  These bubbles are coming from the piston chambers; as the piston compresses the air in the chamber, prior to and during combustion air is forced back through the gasket breach and makes its way back to the header tank. These bubbles can often be quite obvious.

Health and Safety Warning!!! DO NOT take the pressure cap off the water tank on the engine when the engine is running or hot. If the engine is overheating, boiling water and or steam under serious pressure will blast out and scald you. When looking for these bubbles you should be looking at the remote plastic header tank, it is OK to take the top off this tank before you start the engine, and leave it off as you start to run the engine, but don't look directly into the header tank and if possible use a mirror and flashlight. Be careful with the header tank as sometimes if the leak is bad, the air from the cylinders can back up the water and it may begin to overflow. If this happens, shut down the engine immediately to avoid a cleanup mess.

If you make these checks and find no bubbles and the water level remains constant, then the head gasket is NOT your problem. If this is the case, you should perhaps be looking into the possibility of sea water backing up and siphoning through the exhaust into the engine after the engine is shut down. The engine exhaust should be fitted with an anti-siphon loop. At the top of this loop will be a valve to let air in but no exhaust water out. Check that this valve is functioning correctly as this could also be the problem and it is a lot cheaper to repair than the head gasket.

Best of luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

“Hello Dan,

I have been researching your question regarding a non-US citizen registering a boat where they live.  There are two ways to register a vessel in the United States, one is by documentation which is controlled by the US Coast Guard and you must be a US citizen to get a US documentation for your vessel, the other is a local state registration system.   This answer is not clear cut and seems to vary slightly from state to state.  Since I am from the Great Lakes region I will try to describe the basic concept used in these waters.
 
To answer your question quickly, a non-US citizen with a permanent residence in a US State can obtain a vessel registration from that state with some clarifications.  For an example; Ohio considers a person as a permanent resident if you live in Ohio more than six months a year.  To register a boat in Ohio you simply need to use the vessel in Ohio waters as you primary location of boating.   The only odd condition I did find out about was that as a registered Ohio vessel, that vessel can not dock in the same location outside of Ohio for more than 60 consecutive days or you are subject to revocation of the Ohio registration.  I have no idea how this enforced, but that is the way the regulations are written.
 
Whatever home state a vessel is registered in, that vessel may be operated in any other state in the US without additional identification or registration so long as it is operated within the regulations of the local jurisdiction.  Again an example from Ohio:  if a vessel that is registered in Michigan is brought to an inland lake in Ohio it must comply with Ohio inland water requirements but if that same Michigan vessel is operated in Federally Controlled waters such as the Ohio River or Lake Erie and any of their tributaries, it must comply not only with Ohio inland waters but also US Coast Guard regulations.
 
In short a non-US citizen may acquire a state vessel registration where they live.  Before doing so, I would strongly recommend they contact the local state division of watercraft to understand all the local regulations before applying for the registration.
 
Safe Boating
Captain Gordon Hartschuh”