Hi Nadeane,

The tea colored leaching you are seeing is indeed the teak's natural oils and this is actually very normal. All teak decks do this and it is proof that your deck as you rightly say, still has life in it yet. There are a number of polymer sealers on the market you can put on the deck to prevent the water from soaking in when it rains and these will also prevent the deck from graying and developing mildew and to an extent will extend the longevity of your decks.

However most people (including me) don't really like to use these products as they don't always look very natural and are labor intensive to apply. But if you do chose to try one, then in my opinion "Semco" is the best. It's very close to clear resulting in a more natural look and it lasts for many months (depending on conditions, mostly sun). I've embedded a link to their website, just click HERE.

Also, I have a good friend that recently got a very nice result from a Starbright sealer and here is the link to that website. Click HERE.

Bottom line, if you want to keep your teak "natural" then you have to put up with the tea colored liquid. We keep the deck on the yacht I operate natural and each morning I use a chamois to wipe down the boat.

Best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Larry,

I'm sad to say that this sounds pretty serious and this is definitely a repair that needs to be made out of the water. Further, if you can see seepage with the naked eye, you need to take quick and decisive action.

You could well be right in that there may be delamination and/or some pretty serious osmosis. I would recommend having the boat hauled and the whole hull surveyed for moisture content and delamination. The results of this will dictate the remedy, but I am not a qualified fiberglass/delamination expert. Your surveyor should be able to direct you on this.

Best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Ken,

In general, the pencil zincs on heat exchangers are located on the bottom of the cylinder.  I've attached a link to a photo of a Mercruiser 7.4 that has a yellow exchanger on it - - the zinc is seen on the lower left.  Click the link below:

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=SANMC-323&Category_Code=MER8H-IB

Hope this helps,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi Ken

As Craig suggests the zinc seems to be located on the left bottom side of the heat exchanger as you face the engine from the front (belt) end.

Remember to turn off your seacock before you remove it. Have the new one ready and a bucket to catch the water that drains out when you remove the old one. On my engine I have this on a 60 day maintenance cycle, it's well worth keeping a close eye on the zinc to figure out how often you need to change it.

Best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Phyllis,

Your trip seems pretty straight forward. My charts and tidal data is pretty limited for your cruising area, but from what I can see, the currents in your area reverse themselves as the tides ebb and flood into Neah Bay; this is very similar to the tides and currents around Narragansett Bay in Newport, RI which I know well.

Anyway, from what I can tell, the currents around Port Townsend can get pretty strong up to 4 knots or so, also similar to Narragansett Bay, so make sure you time your departure to take advantage of these currents. Also, you should be aware that strong winds in a direction opposed to the current flow can cause overfalls and some nasty sea conditions, so remember to factor the weather patterns in this area into your departure plans as well.

I would also recommend that you get your hands on a tide chart, or tidal software and run some simulations. Pre-planning and timing is everything for a trip like this, but on the boat you have, I forsee nothing that would prevent you from making a comfortable and safe passage to Neah Bay.

Be safe and best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Dave,

This becomes more important in a car where the battery is in close proximity to the chassis. One could argue that a battery that is installed close to an un-insulated ground system on a boat could have the same issue but here's what the problem is using the example of a car. If you connect the negative cable first, then you have made a connection from the negative of the battery to the whole body of the car. Now you connect the positive cable cable and may see a spark as you do so, but this is not really an issue unless there are some combustible fumes kicking about. Next you take your wrench and start tightening up the nut on the side of the positive terminal and in doing so accidentally touch the chassis/body of the car. What you have done here is create a short from the -ve to the +ve of the battery. Remember the -ve is already connected to the car so all of the body and chassis is -ve, so your wrench from the +ve terminal touching the chassis as you tighten the nut is as good as taking the spanner and putting it straight across the terminals. What tends to happen next is that the spark generated is big enough to weld the wrench to the body of the car so now you cant get it off, it begins to glow red and if you're really unlucky the battery will explode covering you in boiling battery acid. As I mentioned, less of an issue on a boat where the battery is usually in a battery box of its own and there is no chassis to worry about, but a good question and still to be considered on boats.

Best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Dear Marc,

Captain Bob Wellen of the Red Sky here (Swan 100), in answer to your situation of a newly purchased sailboat enroute to Bermuda with a broken mast and not enough fuel to reach Bermuda.  I have a contact that I'm 90% sure can help or can give you another for sure contact to get fuel out to your boat about to flounder.  His name is Mark Soares of Bermuda Yacht Services.  His contact information is (441) 297-2798 and his cell is (441) 334-7245 and email mark@bermudayachtservices.com.

I wish you the best,

Captain Bob Wellen

Hi Marc,

Although I'm sure you and your delivery crew have thought of this already, is to check the fuel consumption that should have been provided with the literature on the engine. From this you can work out the most economical RPM that gives you the best range. Then back further off the throttle anytime the winds swings against you because your economy goes to hell in those situations.

More importantly, if the vessel is in danger, you need to notify the Coast Guard, not a Mayday, but a Pan-Pan to alert them to your situation.  If they are heading to Bermuda, then they are close to shipping lanes and it is quite likely that a ship can be diverted to their location to deliver fuel. The USCG should be very helpful, especially if the boat is US flagged - - it's their job to make sure US citizens remain safe.  I was actually boarded 3 years ago on delivery and their principal concern was that we had enough fuel and water and I can tell you I was very impressed with the service they are providing to mariners.

Marc, when Randy forwarded your question he included your cell phone. I will call you this evening as there are some specifics we should discuss to help devise a better plan of action.

Best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Bob,

I think you are doing the right thing with penetrating oil and patience.  You might also try fully submerging the chain in diesel fuel (wonderful lubricant) and moving each link a little bit at a time over the course of several hours.  Eventually I'm confident this chain will loosen up.

Best,

Captain Bob Wellen

Hello Bob,

What shape is the chain in now? I believe you said you are trying to get the chain ON to the cog? If this is the case, you must be looking at a folded up rusty chain. Soak the chain for a couple of days in PB Blaster or the like and then try pulling it apart. If the chain is in position on the gears, keep saturating it and try gently hitting it with a rubber mallet to regain flexibility and break the bond of rust.

Of course, at some point you have to ask yourself if time spent on this is worth the cost of a new chain, because if you can't find the right size replacement you can always make one with a chain kit. Here's a useful link for you:

http://www.edsonmarine.com/marinestore/index.php?main_page=index@cPath+223

As a last resort if the chain is really rusted, you might try soaking the chain in Ospho Metal Treatment, click HERE to go to their website.

Hope this helps,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hello Bob,

I can sympathize with you trying to deal with equipment from lack of use. Since you are dealing with a drive chain, I would suggest looking at an industry that either routinely uses drive chains or one that restores or lubricates equipment.  

Let's start with loosening up the stiff chain that I will assume has some rust and crud buildup.  I will pick on the firearms industry.  After firing a gun there is residue and metal build up in the barrel.  A variety of chemical and penetrates have been developed to help the release of these products.  One of the best penetrating oils I have found - bar none - is a product called Kroil Oil, it far surpasses the popular liquid wrench, WD40, and PB Blaster. Here's a link to the website: http://www.kanolabs.com/

Simply apply the oil and wait, for frozen parts, usually several hours to over night, another application might be needed but it WILL work its way in, then start working the part back and forth to loosen it up. Kroil is a light weight oil, easy to apply, but for some reason hasn't found its way into the general mechanics market.

To keep the chain running smoothly let's look at the bicycle industry. There are a variety of lubricants used to maintain a good working bicycle chain.  A quality product that I have been pleased with, that is easy to apply and has good retention quality, is Tri-flow Teflon chain lubricant. Here's the link to their website: http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Bicycle_Grease.html

You won't find these products in your usual marine chandler's store.  You will need to go to a specialty shop, a reputable gun detailer, bicycle dealer, or possibly on line.  If you can't find Kroil locally try www.midwayusa.com

Hope you are free running soon,
Captain Gordon L Hartschuh

Hi Ron,

Good question. If you have a RADAR fitted on your vessel, you are required by Inland and International navigation rules to use it in certain circumstances, but not "always."

Basically, you need to use it anytime it could possibly help, even in good visibility in the middle of the day. As the boat operator you also need to make sure that you and anyone else using the unit are properly trained. Offshore, by the time you see a tanker, depending on how early you spotted it, it could easily be less than 15 minutes until she poses a risk of collision. Thus, it would be prudent and possible to recognize this risk early on by having your RADAR unit turned on and scanning long range. You would then have more time to assess the risk and take the best measures to avoid them.

If you haven't already, refer to USCG Navigation Rules 5,6,7 and 19 partially reproduced below from Jeremy R. Hood from HSH Yacht Sales; Navigation Rule 5 (Inland and International) states that:

"Every vessel shall at all times maintain a proper lookout by sight and hearing as well as by all available means appropriate in the prevailing circumstances . . ."

While RADAR is not specifically mentioned here, the implication is clear - - it should be in use and used when the circumstance would make it helpful such as at night, or in restricted visibility.

Rule 6 which deals with safe speed for a vessel has a specific section (Rule 6(b)) which applies to vessels with operational RADAR. The requirements are the same for both sets of rules and are:

". . . in determining a safe speed the following factors shall be among those taken into account:

(i) the characteristics, efficiency and limitations of the RADAR equipment;

(ii) any constraints imposed by the RADAR scale range in use;

(iii) the effect on RADAR detection of the sea state, weather and other sources of interference;

(iv) the possibility that small vessels, ice and other floating objects may not be detected by RADAR at an adequate range;

(v) the number, location and movement of vessels detected by RADAR;

(vi) the more exact assessment of the visibility that my be possible when RADAR is used to determine the range of vessels or other objects in the vicinity."

Rule 7 is concerned with assessing risk of collision, and specific mention is made about RADAR. Section (a) states:

"Every vessel shall use all available means appropriate to the prevailing circumstances to determine if risk of collision exists. If there is any doubt such risk shall be deemed to exist."

The rule then continues with Sections (b) and (c) which relate specifically to the use of RADAR:

"(b) Proper use shall be made of RADAR equipment if fitted and operational, including long-range scanning to obtain early warning of risk of collision and radar plotting or equivalent systematic observation of detected objects.

(c) Assumptions shall not be made on the basis of scanty information, especially scanty RADAR information.

Rule 19 relates to the conduct of vessels in Restricted Visibility and here, as you may have imagined, RADAR is again mentioned. Section (d) reads:

"A vessel which detects by RADAR alone the presence of another vessel shall determine if a close-quarters situation is developing or risk of collision exists. If so, she shall take avoiding action in ample time, provided that when such action consists of an alteration of course, so far as possible the following shall be avoided: (i) an alteration of course to port for a vessel forward of the beam, other than a vessel being overtaken; and (ii) an alteration of course towards a vessel abeam or abaft the beam."

These navigation rules, which are in easy-to-read language not only tell you how you are required to use your RADAR, the tell you what type of information you can expect to obtain from a RADAR. You can detect other vessels when they are far off and often below the visible horizon and you can determine if there is a risk of collision. But from Rule 6 you will deduce that RADAR can give false or misleading information also!

Hope this helps answer you question.

Happy Echo Trails,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi Ron,

The Inland and International navigation Rule #7 states that:

"(a) Every vessel shall use all available means appropriate to the prevailing circumstances and conditions to determine if risk of collision exists. If there is any doubt, such risk shall be deemed to exist."

"Proper use shall be made of RADAR equipment if fitted and operational, including long-range scanning to obtain early warning of risk of collision and radar plotting or equivalent systematic observation of detected objects.”

“Assumptions shall not be made on the basis of scanty information, especially scanty RADAR information.”

“In determining if risk of collision exists the following considerations shall be among those taken into account: (i) such risk shall be deemed to exist if the compass bearing of an approaching vessel does not appreciably change; and (ii) such risk may sometimes exist even when an appreciable bearing change is evident, particularly when approaching a very large vessel or a tow or when approaching a vessel at close range.”

With the rule being quoted, it basically says if the vessel has operational RADAR on board, it is to be used regardless of weather conditions. It is still the discretion of the master to determine the “risk of collision” and use appropriate actions for collision avoidance. The issue is certainly one of liability and responsibility, so make no mistake that if a collision did in fact occur, there had to be a “risk of collision” prior to the collision. Vessels generally don’t simply appear out of thin air! I believe should a collision occur and a followup investigation finds that RADAR on board was not being used, that vessel holds far more responsibility for the collision.

The other more pragmatic approach is that there is no better way of learning how to interpret RADAR screens than in good visibility where you can see exactly what you are reading on the screen.

Remember, RADAR is the only navigational aid that not only helps you find out where you are, but shows you where everyone is too.

Safe Sailing,
Respectfully,
Captain Gordon L. Hartschuh

Hi Ron,

Rule 5 of the "International Regulations for Prevention of Collisions at Sea, 1972" states:

Lookout

"Every vessel shall at all times maintain a proper lookout by sight and hearing as well as by all available means appropriate in the prevailing circumstances and conditions so as to make a full appraisal of the situation and of the risk of collision.

Rule 5 is a basic rule, the violation of which is so often the cause of small-craft accidents - collisions with other boats or stationary objects. On smaller vessels, the "lookout" is nominally the helmsman, and this is acceptable if he is aware of his responsibility and performs his duties. He must be able to hear as well as see potential dangers. If in doubt, a skipper should post an additional person with the sole duties of lookout; this is particularly necessary in situations of reduced visibility. It is even possible that two lookouts will be necessary - one forward and one aft. Should a collision occur, failure to have a proper lookout would be strongly held against you in court and that would definitely include failure to use an installed and functioning RADAR.

This is also the Rule that is obviously violated by all single-handing skippers on long voyages, or even on voyages of more than a few hours. Note that the Rule states that a lookout is required "at all times" - this includes when a vessel is at anchor.

Hope this help,

Capt. Ian Fagg

Hi Glenn,

I've done quite a bit of web searching and given the popularity of the Cal-30's was actually surprised to find that there are no organized Cal-30 clubs.  That said, here are some links that I did find that may help you.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=114740
http://pages.sssnet.com/go2erie/calhome.htm
http://www.c-2.com/sbo/boatinfo.htm?fno=499.9

Alternately, you should consider setting up your own Cal Owners Club on SailAngle. Click on "Groups" on the silver navigation bar and then "All Groups". Chose Sailboats and then "Add a new Group."  Make it a public group so it can be found on Google, fill in the details and then submit. It's easy, and likely to attract a broad audience.

Regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hello Will,

Here is a diagram of the wiring for the Perkins 4108:

In addition, click HERE to go to a website that has more information of the wiring harness for the Perkins 4108. The following is some of the information from that web page:

Perkins 4108 Diesel Engine Wiring Harness and Diagram

The front face of the original Perkins 4108 control panel,which is fitted with VDO gauges,oil pressure,rev, counter and water temperature,charge warning light,I have added an instrument light on/off switch and a remote cockpit 12volt supply plug.

My own boats engine is a tried and trusted Perkins 4108 diesel engine,its done around 1750 hours,which is not a lot for an engine around 25 years old? I service it on a regular basis and alway use the correct grade of diesel engine oil,this in itself doubles the permisable hours you can run between service over conventional oils.

My engine has what I think is the standard switch panel and related meters,the start switch had been changed for a non marine quality one,I put a new switch in,which in my case has the optional key position to warm up the Lucas fuel pre heater device used for cold starting.

The wire loom is original,it has two cable bullet connectors at each end of the loom,which in my case is about five meters long ( 197 inches) my connector blocks show some degrade from its previous service life,the 4mm brown live supply connector has corroded right away,requiring a reconnection.I also find a few stray wires that seem to connect to nothing,plus wires that are in the loom and are not required.

You can go to the website above to read more.

Hope this helps.

All the best,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Will,

Don't know if this will help, but here is a link to a wiring diagram for the Perkins 4-108. Click HERE

I also have the shop manual for the Perkins 4-108 and I looked through it and you're right - - no detail on the wiring harness.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Best,

Captain Mike Clayton