Hi Mike,

I would definitely paint rather than gelcoat. For one, painting is much easier and usually leads to a much nicer result for DIY projects, leave gelcoat for a professional yard. Interlux brand coatings (http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/) are the ones I know best and I've always had good results with these paints. There are others you could research, but I would start with the Interlux site and read the instructions. It will go something like ... abrade the surface with sandpaper starting heavier down to a specific small grit paper, apply their primer, then paint. You can either spray or brush depending on your skill level.

Not to discount your boat for less than it is, and I do not mean to offend, but my guess is if you are trailering this 1978 boat and are going to knock about with it ... you probably want to improve the look of her, but are probably not looking for a million dollar finish. If that is the case, I might suggest you look into Pettit brand products (http://www.pettitpaint.com/), specifically their Easypoxy brushable paints. They are very economical and can be rolled on quickly and back-brushed for a very nice finish that could look amazing for a fraction of the time and money of spraying. Go to their website for product selection and instructions.

I will leave you with one last thought ... the rule in painting and varnishing is preparation is the key to a great finish. The more time you spend preparing the surface, the better the finish.

Good luck,

Captain Bob Wellen

Hi Mike,

Personally I would opt for painting, but it also depends on the area your are working on. If you are repairing a deep gouge or damage on the deckhouse, for example, then gelcoat is your best bet because it builds up the surface so the paint can be feathered in to match the surrounding area. But, if the gelcoat is in reasonably good shape and you are trying to brighten her up by doing a large area, then painting for sure will do the trick.

Like Bob above, I've also had good results with Interlux paints ... the epoxy based paints can be brushed, rolled or sprayed and with careful back-brushing the paint sets so the brush marks are virtually invisible.

Happy sanding,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi Eric,

No, Red Sky is a totally private yacht. However, there are several large Swan yachts for charter, some 82's a 90 and a 112. The following website details Swan Yachts for charter in the Caribbean:

http://www.swanyachts.co.uk/CaribbeanSailingYachts.htm

For larger charter yachts you should also check out Camper and Nicholsons and Edmiston; both represent a large fleet of yachts.

The brand new Swan 82 that fellow Ask-a-Pro Captain Ian Fagg runs does charter, so if you're interested, look him up in the member profiles and send him an inquiry?

Happy chartering,

Captain Bob Wellen

Hi Steven,

Ah Ha! The age old question. There is little doubt that the chemical products on the market have some impressive results. The downside is that they suck the natural oils out of the teak and ultimately reduce the life you will get out of it. Also, any Phosphoric or Oxalic acid based products like many of the chemical "brighteners" will damage anodized aluminum and some paints.

I use a mixture of about 200 ml of household bleach and the same amount of Cascade dishwasher crystals mixed together in a bucket of water. Use that solution with lots of scrubbing with a medium scotch bright pad rubbing always across the grain, never with the grain.  Then rinse with plenty of water.

The bleach kills any mildew and the Cascade cleans the wood. Using this mix will be far less harsh on the teak than anything you can buy in a ship's store, and it is much cheaper and the results are great.  After the treatment, use a good quality teak oil rubbing it into the teak with a soft clean cloth.

Happy scrubbing,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Sut,

I can't speak with any personal experience from using any Manson anchors, but over the past several years I have looked at a number of anchors that employ a similar design with the fixed fluke and the roll bar to right it if it lands upside down, or to help re-set the anchor if it trips when the wind changes direction. From all the reviews I have read these "style" of anchors are getting superb reviews and in particular the Manson is also endorsed highly by Lloyds (something not to be sniffed at in my opinion).

You are right about the size, 16 lbs is too light for a 31 foot boat; the old rule is about 1 lb per foot, and then it never hurts to add a little.

The downside to the Supreme will be that it won't perform as well over rock. For rock and coral there is no substitute for the Bruce, or Ray as Manson calls it. The second problem with using the Supreme over rock is that it will damage the sharp tip, or bend it, and the tip is important to dig in through sand, mud and especially to help it bury into weed and grass bottoms.

Bottom line, Manson Supreme looks like a terrific anchor, especially with the Lloyds rating. I would recommend you go for the 35 lb anchor and make sure the tip remains sharp and in good condition. I would also recommend carrying a second anchor, preferably a Bruce, when you anchor over rock. Carrying and setting two anchors in a big blow like you described, particularly against a lee shore is always advisable. If you have swing room, no harm in letting out more chain that the books suggest - - this will let you sleep well.

Safe anchoring,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Trip,

Just looked your boat up on the SailAngle website to see what we are dealing with, she's a pretty boat. Usually, you would associate using epoxy barrier coats with the hull below the water line. The purpose of a barrier coat is to prevent osmosis, as epoxy, unlike polyester, will not absorb water. As the deck of the boat is not constantly submerged (I hope) using a barrier coat isn't necessary.

However, I recommend sticking with marine grade paints for the deck. Even if you don't want to use a 2-part epoxy paint, I would still recommend using something that is of a marine quality; semi-gloss enamel simply won't hold up to the elements and normal wear and tear.

I really liked the lines of your boat and would encourage you to upload some pictures of your work in your photo album - - it would be funn to see the progress.

Best of luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Trip,

As an addendum to my first answer, if you do expose any of the fiberglass matting below the gelcoat on the deck, you can use a barrier coat in those areas. A barrier coat is not necessary anywhere that you don't plan to remove the gelcoat; only where bare fiberglass is exposed. Below the water line is the typical area that requires the barrier coat as this is usually not gelcoated during the construction.

Best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Steve,

Sadly this is a tough call. The problem you have is that while the rest of the gelcoat, or paint, surrounding the boat name has faded in the sun, the name has protected the gelcoat, or paint, beneath the lettering. Thus, when you remove the old name you will still see it.

You can use rubbing compound and it will make it better, but to remove all traces of the previous boat name, you need to re-paint the whole transom (assuming the name is on the transom). Any good boat yard should be able to repaint the transom without hauling the boat and blend the edges into the rest of the hull such that you would be hard pressed to notice the difference.

Finally, when replacing the name I would strongly recommend using a marine clear vinyl decal rather than paint. Somewhere around your marina will be a graphic artist who specializes in clear vinyl decals and they are much easier to apply and the results look very sharp indeed.

Good luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Steve,

The short answer is paint! If you want to remove all traces, then you need to re-paint the transom. You said the boat is 1989 and I assume you are concerned that if you paint the transom that it won't match the hull (I'm assuming you don't want to paint the hull at this time). But you would be amazed at what professional painters can do to match an existing hull.  I think you would be pleased with the result.

Best,

Captain Bob Wellen

Hi Jay -

Yes you can use Muriatic Acid as a bottom wash, but it depends on what your are trying to remove. Basically, all marine bottom cleaners contain acids, usually Muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid and also known as swimming pool acid, so it is very inexpensive when bought at a swimming pool supply store.

If you are trying to remove barnacles and heavy growth, first scrape the barnacles and slime off the bottom, then brush full-strength Muriatic acid over the spots and areas of heavy growth. Let sit for 15 mintues, then scrub with a good boat soap and lots of water.

If it is just a general bottom clean, there are lots of bottom cleaning products that work very well. If you want to use Muriatic acid, then I recommend diluting it 50/50 with water, wiping or brushing the bottom and waiting 15 minutes before washing with a good marine boat soap and lots of water.

Remember, Muriatic acis is caustic, so take all necessary precaustions not to breathe the fumes and not to get it on you skin or in your eyes.

Good luck

Captain Bob Wellen

Hi Jay,

I have used "On-Off" in the past in which the active ingredient is Muriatic Acid, and have certainly seen some impressive results. I recently used this product for cleaning some growth off my propeller and it works particularly well. Muriatic acid is the historical name for hydrochloric acid and there are some cautions you need to be aware of:

1. It is highly corrosive and the fumes from Muriatic acid are nasty, make sure you wear a mask and stand upwind.

2. Always wear work goggles, long-sleeved protective clothing and gloves to avoid getting it on your skin or in your eyes; it will burn.

3. I have read reports and seen first-hand, odd discolorations when it comes into contact with bottom paint. If you're doing a haul out and planning to repaint the bottom anyway, then not to worry.

4. Here's a caution if you're planning on doing the cleaning with the boat resting in its trailer; a number of people have reported staining of the trailer, so you may want to cover the trailer.

5. If using on a painted bottom, I would recommend diluting with water 50/50 - - remember to add the acid to the water instead of vice versa.

6. If using on gelcoat, make sure you rinse well with plenty of water after the job is done and reseal the surface with a good coat of quality wax.

7. Regardless if used on paint or gelcoat, water is your best friend. When finished always rinse with fresh water to make sure you have removed all trace of the acid. Also be aware of the run off and where it is going.

Happy cleaning,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Jay,

Not much I can add to the answers that Ian and Bob provided. But there is a bottom cleaner product sold by West Marine that works well - "Starbrite Boat Bottom Cleaner-Barnacle & Zebra Mussel Remover." This can be sprayed on and left to sit, but like Bob said, if barnacles is the issue, they should be hand scraped before application.

You can use Muratic acid full strength but it will discolor copper-base bottom paints. The chlorine in the acid reacts with the copper in the bottom paint resulting in discolorations. So if using on bottom paint it should be diluted 50/50 with water. Remember to follow all the precautions, especially the eye protection, that Ian and Bob mentioned.

Hope this helps.

Best,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hello Jay,

I've used Muriatic acid on boat bottoms with good results. If heavy growth is present , spray the bottom with full strength acid (don't use a plastic sprayer, it will melt) and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Then spray again and use a hand scraper to scrape the muck off the bottom; usually it will come right off. Then dilute the acid 50/50 with water and spray again and scrub with a good marine bottom scrub.  This process usually does a very good job. Remember to clean up with lots of water to remove any trace of the acid. If the bottom is unpainted make sure you seal with a good coat of paste wax.

Good luck,

Captain Mike Clayton

Hi Edwin,

I took a look at the page link you provided and read the reviews. It certainly sounds promising. However, all of these miracle products seem to have one thing in common, they all contain an acid, be it citric, Phosphoric or worse still Muriatic acid. Over time using these products, working them deep into the pores of the gelcoat as the product suggests, will begin to leave the surface chalky. Knowing this, I would recommend using the product sparingly and then after an application, using some kind of wax to seal the hull. My current favourite hull cleaner is Sea Power Marine Cleaner and Wax which I recommended on Pro's Products on this website. You can buy the product through the website, or West Marine. I use this product on the Swan 82 I run and know it is a quality product.

Bottom line is this; you can use any strong degreaser to wash your hull to remove dirt and grime. For example, diluting a bilge cleaner works well. I find that Osfo (also in Pro's Products) either sprayed on or brushed on works very well for removing rust stains, but best kept away from painted surfaces, especially Awl Craft 2000 (I speak from experience on this !!), and then always seal the boat with wax afterwards to maintain a good shine.

Sadly to maintain a hull in perfect condition is always going to involve some elbow grease. You can find both of these products at most marine product stores.

Good luck,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Edwin,

If you are really keen on trying the "Easy Clean" product, it appears from the link www.boat-cleaner.co.uk that there is an option to ship the product to the U.S. As Ian said, products like Roll-Off, On-Off and the like all contain acids (hydrochloric, phosphoric and oxalic) and while they are technically biodegradable, they will dull your hull over time. I also use the Sea Power Marine Cleaner from West Marine, but they also distribute a product called "Pure Oceans" hull cleaner that I've been meaning to try. In the end there is simply no substitute for elbow grease, but if you decide to order and try Easy Clean, drop us a line and let us know your experience.

Best,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi Robert,

Ultimately your boat is going to have to come out of the water, so you are going to have to find a marina that will haul wooden boats. Of course some people do leave their boats in during the winter and light ice forms around them, but I am sure that Shakleton would agree that this is generally a bad practice.

On the cover, I would well recommend this as well. The shrink wrap system to keep off snow, ice, leaves, etc., works very well indeed and will seriously reduce the amount of clean-up and maintenance that needs to be done when you come to re-commission the boat in spring.

I would also recommend posting your question on the SailAngle.com "Forum" and throw it out to other members of the community and perhaps others can give you some specific advice on marina's that will haul wooden boats in your area.

Best regards,

Captain Ian Fagg

Hi Robert,

I spent last winter in Maine and I think there might be some confusion on your question. In Newport, the term bubbling has the same meaning as shrink wrapping the boat while it is out of the water. But in Maine, and perhaps upstate New York where you are, the term bubbling means using an air pump to slowly bubble air around the hull of a boat that remains in the water. I'm somewhat familiar with that technique after last season.

If you are talking about the technique of bubbling air around the hull of the boat, that can work quite well, but it depends on the thickness of the ice you expect to form. I'm not the expert here, but my understanding is if the expected thickness of ice is one inch or less, then bubbling will work quite well, although you will occasionally have to come down to the dock and break up the thin ice that will form around the hull. Use a boat hook and break up the thin ice so the bubbles can continue to do their job.

However, like Ian said in his answer, you will eventually need to be hauled, so if your yard isn't hauling wood hulled boats anymore, you will need to find another yard. So the choice is yours, you can find a new yard now and put the boat on the hard for the winter season, or if the ice that forms is less that one inch you can use the air bubbling to keep the ice off the hull. Since the amount of ice that will form is unpredictable, I would always error on the cautious side and find a new yard that will haul a wooden hulled boat. In addition, I like to work on the boat during the off season and it is far easier to work on the boat while it is out of the water, especially if you need to work on any of the through-hull fittings. Hope this helps.

Best,

Captain Craig Bliss

Hi Larry,

This is a pretty smart idea. I have seen a number of rigs that utilize such systems and the principle remains the same. When your mast is laid flat, you need to get a strong pole approximately 5-feet in length and attach it securely to the base of the mast pointing vertically upward; perhaps using something like a stanchion base for the pole to slot into would work well, just make sure it is secure. Next, you need to make sure it can't slip sideways. Take two pieces of 8mm line from the top of the pole to something secure, one either side of the boat (the chain plates should work well) and put them under a little tension to ensure that the pole is laterally secure. Now attach another piece of line from the top of the pole to a position approximately 5-feet up the mast, and then lastly attach the trailer winch to the top of the pole to pull the whole rig up.

It may be preferable to rig the base of the pole so it can hinge and angle it back a little toward the mast for more leverage. Each case is unique and I am sure that what works best for your situation will become more apparent when you begin measuring it all and setting it in place. In physics terms, the short 5-foot pole becomes your lever arm and pivot point. Sounds like a nice winter project, and should make setting your mast effortless.

Cheers,

Captian Ian Fagg